I, too, have a set of the P'zwo fogs on my van and have been very pleased
with them.   They look cool and improve visibility greatly.  Unfortunately,
one of mine took a direct hit from a rock which cracked the lens.  I got a
replacement lens assembly from Ken Wilfy (Van-Again) -- he also suggested
the 3M protective film, which I obtained from the following:

http://www.chasetechno.com/

It's also possible to get replacement parts from the "official" US
distributor of P'zwo products, 1552 Design:

http://www.1552design.com/

Ray

At 11:58 AM 8/31/2002 +0100, you wrote:
>Hi Kenneth,
>
>Thanks for your reply, and thank you for posting it to the list.
>
>I can understand why you might not wish to drill or cut your Vanagon's body
>panels.  If you lack the necessary skills for body work, rust treatment and
>finishing, any drilling or cutting will only increase the risk of rust
>taking hold.
>
>Rust is a big problem with Vanagons, unless they spend their lives in a
>warm, dry climate.  The factory rustproofing is elementary at best, and
>consists of penny-pinching amounts of wax deposited in only some of the box
>members that make up the Vanagon's structure.
>
>My '84 Reimo conversion (based on a 1.9 WBX Transporter panel van) had its
>fair share of rust for a Vanagon living in the UK, especially one living in
>an area such as mine (the North Sea coast of Yorkshire) that has a cool
>temperate maritime climate, with constantly changing weather in the sping,
>summer and fall and copious amounts of salt on the roads in winter.
>
>However, I have by now thoroughly and systematically opened up, treated and
>rustproofed over 60% of my Vanagon's bodywork and expect to complete the job
>later this year.  I regard every new drilled or cut hole not as a threat,
>but as a *golden opportunity* to inspect and treat rust and to make sure
>that it never recurs in that area.  I am using hand and power tools to
>remove rust, Kurust (phosphoric acid) to convert what little remains, and
>either zinc rich primer and micaceous iron oxide paint, or the same primer
>and 2-pack epoxy finish, or Waxoyl rustproofing fluid in unseen areas such
>as enclosed box sections.
>
>Areas which cause particular problems include the body seams, where rust
>attacks from the inside outwards.  Seam rust CANNOT be treated only from the
>outside.  You need to tackle *both* sides, otherwise it will simply recur,
>again and again.
>
> From the factory, the Vanagon body got an electrophoretic dip primer over
>the whole bodyshell, but the finishing paint was applied by hand.  If you
>closely inspect the body seams from inside, you will notice that little or
>no finish was applied to the vulnerable seam edges, especially around the
>main side panels, the rear wheel arches and the top of the sills.  The
>electrophoretic primer alone is not able to withstand 18 years in an
>aggressive climate.  Heck, these vans were never even designed to last that
>long!
>
>Other areas needing attention include the enclosed sills.  Access can be
>gained via removable rubber plugs at the bottom of the bodysides, accessible
>from the inside after trim has been removed.  I have inspected mine with an
>illuminated fibre optic viewer, treated the small amount of rust with Kurust
>and spray injected wax to cover the whole interior of the box section.  I
>will inspect them again after two years and re-treat if required.
>
>The Vanagon has a semi-monocoque structure with a strong floorpan (not a
>separate chassis) that is stiffened by box sections such as the sills, the
>"chassis rails", the frame members that support the body panels and the air
>ducts at the rear.  All of these members are just as critical to the overall
>strength and integrity of the structure as each other.  They got only a
>light spray of wax at the factory which appears (in the Vanagons I have
>inspected) not to cover much more than half of the area needing such
>treatment.  Provided that rust has not taken hold, a careful and thorough
>application of Waxoyl does the trick here.
>
>I have learnt from long experience (pre-Vanagon) that even the brightest of
>bare metal produced after removing old rust and paint needs treating with
>Kurust.  After you use a power wire brush or other tool to obtain bright
>bare metal, it takes only about 30 seconds for surface rust to begin forming
>- unless you live in SoCal, of course!
>
>For the rest of us mere mortals, it is absolutely essential to convert this
>rust before applying primer and finish, otherwise rusting will start unseen.
>  Rust travels rapidy.  The rust occupies several times the volume of the
>unrusted metal and exerts enormous force as it expands.  So it can easily
>open up seams, allowing further air moisture to penetrate, thereby
>accelerating and propagating rust at surprising speed.  So I treat ALL bare
>areas with Kurust before applying primer and finish, or Waxoyl.  No
>exceptions!
>
>I hope that you can now understand why I don't fear drilling or cutting my
>Vanagon's body panels, especially in areas where they open up more
>opportunities to deal with rust and prevent further corrosion.
>
>*****
>
>To those list members who sent me (by private email) abusive responses to my
>previous posting to the list on this subject, I am sorry that you have not
>yet matured beyond the stage of young girls defending their choice of Barbie
>accessories.  Grow up, guys.  And have the courage to make your views known
>on the list, so we can all have a long and hearty laugh at your expense!
>
>Regards,
>
>Tony
>
>(1984 Vanagon Reimo)
>
>
>>---------- Original Message --------------------
>>
>>Date:    Fri, 30 Aug 2002 09:18:33 -0400
>>From:    Kenneth Wilford <kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET>
>>Subject: Re: Projektzwo foglight spares.....what if you break your $300
>>          foglites?
>>
>>This has the downside of this idea is actually having to cut and drill
>>holes
>>in the body of your Vanagon.  If you have an old clunker, then go for it.
>>I
>>am trying to extend the life of my van and cobbling together some crappy
>>looking, hacked up foglights isn't my idea of something good for my van.
>>
>>The pzwo lights require no cutting, no drilling and I have had mine
>>installed for about three years now with no rock chips.  If you are that
>>concerned about protecting your investment, I would get some 3m clear rock
>>guard which you can buy in a sheet and putting this on the lenses.  Most
>>rock hits would be absorbed by this material and save the glass.  However
>>if
>>you run around ramming into boulders then nothing short a lens fashioned
>>from a large diamond is going to help you (have a great Friday!)
>>
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf
>>Of Anthony Polson
>>Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2002 5:38 PM
>>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>>Subject: Re: Projektzwo foglight spares.....what if you break your $300
>>foglites?
>>
>>
>>I think it's about time y'all decided on "ProjektNEIN"!
>>
>>Instead, buy a South African lower grill, which is full width, cut two
>>rectangular holes and fit the rectangular foglights of your choice.  No
>>spares hassles.
>>
>>Regards,
>>
>>Tony
>>
>>(1984 Vanagon, Reimo Alaska conversion)
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
>http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx

Ray Reinhard
'86 TiiCo Westy Camper GL