Doug
I have a DOKA that had similar dents. What I did was use a hydraulic jack in the
storage box. By placing large wood blocks on the jack (and under), I was able to
incrementally press the dints back up. I played around the entire area reachable
from the storage box until relatively even. Then I moved into the engine
compartment area and found that I could fit my jack in the recess in front of
the engine. Here too I minutely adjusted the truck bed. Finally, I got into the
area behind the tail lights and did as best I could in there. I still have minor
dimples of course but the bed is dead flat.
Larry

"Fitz-Randolph, Douglas" wrote:

> Hi all. I'm wondering if anyone has suggestions as to how best repair the
> bed on a single/double cab. Mine has a bunch of dime to quarter-sized rust
> holes in it from a previous owner screwing down a 3/4" plywood "bed liner"
> with huge, randomly placed wood screws. Also, it's a bit dented / pushed-in
> in places. And... it's also coated with thick, black, tar-like undercoating
> material.
>
> I guess my questions would be...
>
>  - What's the best way to get the tar/undercoating off?
>
>  - What's the best way to address the holes and dents?
>
> And my thoughts...
>
>  - I'm hesitant to use body filler, as the bed will have to stand up to some
> abuse - I don't think the filler would fare so well.
>
>  - Repair using metal? Not really sure how to do this without making a mess
> of things. And how to paint or coat the underside of the welds?
>
>  - Maybe get it "Rhino-lined" after repairing?
>
>  - Replacement panels are still available from VW - these would run about
> $700, and they'd still need to be installed - which sounds awfully difficult
> to me with all those spot welds to make (only to watch them rust), not to
> mention how to remove the existing bed.
>
>  - I suppose another option would be to just replace the bed with something
> else, i.e. aluminum diamond plate.
>
>  - Or... remove the existing rust, repair it so it will not return, then
> re-do the plywood, properly attaching it in such a manner so that it would
> not cause rust-through to reoccur. I must say I like the plywood for its
> strength and ability to absorb impacts, and also because it isn't corrugated
> like the metal bed underneath. And if done correctly, it could be easily
> replaced if need be.
>
> Any feed back, thoughts, experiences you wish to share are much appreciated.
> And if anyone knows of a reputable, quality-minded body repair person in
> Southern Maine - someone you'd trust without hesitation to do the job right
> on your own van... please speak up!
>
> Doug Fitz-Randolph
> Freeport, ME