Thanks - I didn't ask the question but I was going to have to do this
maintenance soon.

At 11:15 AM 9/8/02 -0700, Doktor Tim wrote:
>Steps to follow for noise free disc brakes.
>
>1. Verify surface condition or rotors. As long as there are no sharp edges
>they can be reused. NEVER turn rotors. If they have glazing or rough or
>sharp edges in any way, replace them.
>
>2. Verify rotor thickness. If they are within 1/2 mm of minimum, replace them.
>
>3. Use a wire brush and brake cleaner to get the calipers clean. Primarily
>the side slots the edges of the pads ride against.
>
>4. Use Textar, ATE or VW pads. Never use metallics. Non-metalic PBR Deluxe
>pads also are OK.
>
>5. With used rotors, use a file to bevel the upper and lower edges of the
>pads so they will not ride on the wear ridge of the rotors.
>
>6. Use 80 grit emory cloth to scour the surfaces of the rotors. Helps the
>pads break in.
>
>7. When trying to solve noise and reusing worn pads, scour the friction
>surface to take the shine off them.
>
>8. Use the special Sta-Lube synthetic brake grease (high temp
>non-migrating) on the metal sides of the pads, the top of the pads where
>the spreader spring rides, on the retaining pins, and on the back of the
>pads where they contact the caliper pucks and/or frame. If backing plates
>are original for the application, put a film of this special grease on both
>sides of the plates. You need more than a thin film, but certainly not gobs
>of lube. Be very careful not to get any of this lube anywhere on the
>friction surfaces.
>
>9. Break in new pads properly. Drive at 50mph. Use the brakes to quickly
>reduce speed to 30mph. Drive a half a mile to cool the brakes, then repeat
>10 times. What this does is heat the pads sufficiently to drive off the
>adhesive volatiles holding the fiber matrix together without overheating,
>and mate the new pads to the rotors.
>
>10. Flush and bleed the system yearly with DOT 4 fluid. This will stop flex
>hoses from swelling and caliper pucks and master cylinders from sticking or
>leaking. Don't forget to flush and bleed the clutch as well for the same
>reason.
>
>In hundreds of brake jobs over the past 10+ years, I've only had two come
>back for squeaks using this procedure.  One was a case where the rotors
>were worn to a point just a hair wider than minimum. The other was a case
>where the vehicle was being driven daily on a very dusty road and dried up
>the lube.
>
>At 09:53 AM 09/08/2002, you wrote:
>
>
>>As a side note, can anyone recommend a brake pad brand with might help
>>reduce the annoying LOUD squeal I get when my brakes get hot?

Chris M. <"Busbodger" of "TEAM SLOWPOKE">
Cookeville, Tennessee

ICQ# 5944649
scm9985@tntech.edu

'78 VW Westfalia (67 HP -> that is...67 Hamster Power)
'65 Beetle - Type IV powered
'99 CR-V AWD station wagon
'81 CB900 Custom moto-chickle
2.5 Corvair engines for my Trans-vair Conversion