---- Original Message -----
From: "George Goff" <THX0001@AOL.COM>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 5:29 AM
Subject: Re: Sure. . . Summary: Re: How hard is it to remove exhaust?

> In a message dated 9/9/02 11:33:39 PM, claudiocella@SHAW.CA writes:
>
> << In regards to using a hammer and a chisel  -  the hammer and chisel
method
>
> would be used parallel with the stud (at least as close as possible to
this
>
> position given the amount of room), therefore hitting the nut on it's top
>
> surface with the cylinder head acting as a support. >>
>
> Given enough room?  Dear God, I would like to meet the man who can
accelerate
> a hammer, any hammer, enough to cut that nut in the short distance which
is
> available.
>
> George

Thats is why a club hammer (as Brits call them, not a sledge which is a long
handled thing carrying from 8 to 16 lb head) is an indispensible part of a
mechanics tool kit.
A 2 lb club, swung or dropped over as little as 6" can give quite a
substantial blow to a chisel, and if that chisel is angled & positioned
perfectly then even better. Recently constrained awkwardly under the  front
of my Syncro, not jacked up, I had drilled out the heads of some seized 10mm
self tappers and managed to finish the job with a pathetically weak swing of
a 2lb club and an electricains chisel - taking the heads clean off at the
first swing.

Aside...
I see even builders 'lads' over here all the time hammering away at bolster
chisels with  a 12 or 16oz claw hammer, risking serious harm to their hand
holding the chisel and getting absolutely nowhere, having to swing the
damned thing through a enormous arc to get any force into the target -
typical in a country that has all but dispensed with apprenticeships and
proper training for any trade.

Clive
'88 Syncro Transporter