Couldn't you swing the hoist into the hatch, wrap it around
and lower the engine?

Thanks,
Chris

---- Original message ----
>Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 17:58:32 -0400
>From: "G. Matthew Bulley" <gmbulley@BULLEY-HEWLETT.COM>
>Subject: Re: seeking Air Cooled info/advice (82 Westy)
>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>
>Tim--
>
>How does an engine hoist help eliminate the jacks? The only
way the
>air-cooled comes out is DOWN*, so???
>
>*unless you spend a 4-6 hours stripping it while it is in
the engine
>bay, but even then, it would still be a royal pain to hoist
it out
>
>Developing business and guiding change since 1996,
>
>G. Matthew Bulley
>Bulley-Hewlett
>Marketing & Communications
>Business: www.bulley-hewlett.com
>AIM = IExplain4u
>Phone: +1.919.658.1278
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Vanagon Mailing List
[mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM] On Behalf
>Of Aristotle Sagan
>Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2002 5:49 PM
>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>Subject: Re: seeking Air Cooled info/advice (82 Westy)
>
>Mah advice to yew...
>
>Check compression. All cylinders of the old engine. If
everything is up
>to
>snuff, replace all the peripherals and get it running
again. If not,
>the drop job is pretty easy (See Matthews posts). With an
engine hoist,
>whoowhee! No jacks to mess with, no blocks, nothing to slow
you down.
>
>Clutch position? Well, if you aren't going to replace it
(and I would),
>and
>just transfer it from one flywheel to the other, there is
no position
>that
>would make sense to mark. And mark on what? I suspect that
advice is to
>keep
>the pressure plate in the same relative position when you
are replacing
>it
>on the same engine. Only applicable if you are doing a
front main seal
>change. Of course, I would spend the 125 to 150 bucks to
replace the
>clutch
>(plate, pressure  plate,  and throwout bearing). Don't
forget the little
>shaft bearing in the end of the crankshaft. I mean, you're
in there
>anyway.
>
>Longitivity of an Aircooled? About 24 inches front to back.
>
>tim in san jose
>
>
>
> >
>>Howdy Listees,
>>
>>Good meeting some of you at the Van-o-rama last weekend.
>>
>>Background:
>>On my way home I had arranged to pick up a complete engine
assembly
>from an
>>81 that was rebuilt 30K ago.  My vehicle was purchased as
salvage but
>is in
>>beautiful condition except for an engine compartment fire
that melted
>parts
>>of the peripheral components.  The burnt engine has 95K
original miles.
>I
>>have an engine hoist, jack stands and a fairly
comprehensive tool
>>collection,
>>but have never removed a VW engine. (my experience is with
aircraft
>>reciprocating engines).
>>
>>My Questions for you:
>>1. What is the average longevity of the 2.0l air-cooled
when properly
>>maintained?
>>2. Should I simply replace the peripherals on the burnt
engine avoiding
>the
>>r&
>>r process?
>>3. If r&r is recommended, is there an easy to follow step-
by-step
>posted
>>anywhere on the list?
>>3. I noticed in the Haines manual that it is important to
mark the
>clutch
>>position when removing the engine, this makes me nervous
about the r&r.
>>What
>>is the position mark for and is there a way to figure it
out on the
>donor
>>engine?
>>
>>TIA for your assistance with this project!
>>Salud!
>>Loretta Abbott-Kennon
>>I
>
>
>
>
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