Boy I didn't have this experience with my 81 last fall. Floor jacks under
the axels were needed to raise the body to slide the engine under. I didn't
use 1/2 CDX plywd but I still don't think it would have cleared.

Sean Garrett
1981 Westy (his)
1995 Eurovan Camper (hers)
sean.garrett@asu.edu

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Aristotle Sagan [mailto:killer_jupiter@HOTMAIL.COM]
> Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2002 4:27 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: seeking Air Cooled info/advice (82 Westy)
>
>
> Thankyou Chris.
>
> I didn't think it needed explaining. The ornerynest part of the engine
> removals I have done (1 aircooled, 1 watercooled) were
> futzing with the
> floorjacks, placing 4x4s, lifting with a long prybar to lower
> the engine
> finally to the ground, etc., etc. I like the  concept of
> tying that thing up
> secure, removing the bolts and lowering the engine to the
> ground, sliding it
> off the transmission shaft as you go along. Put it on a
> skidder plate made
> of 1/2 CDX plywood and pull it out.
>
>
> tim in san jose (sorry I were so obtuse)
>
>  >
> >Couldn't you swing the hoist into the hatch, wrap it around
> >and lower the engine?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Chris
> > > >
> > >Tim--
> > >
> > >How does an engine hoist help eliminate the jacks? The only
> >way the
> > >air-cooled comes out is DOWN*, so???
> > >
> > >*unless you spend a 4-6 hours stripping it while it is in
> >the engine
> > >bay, but even then, it would still be a royal pain to hoist
> >it out
> > >
> > >Developing business and guiding change since 1996,
> > >
> > >G. Matthew Bulley
> > >Bulley-Hewlett
> > >Marketing & Communications
> > >Business: www.bulley-hewlett.com
> > >AIM = IExplain4u
> > >Phone: +1.919.658.1278
> > >
> > >
> > >-----Original Message-----
> > >From: Vanagon Mailing List
> >[mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM] On Behalf
> > >Of Aristotle Sagan
> > >Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2002 5:49 PM
> > >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > >Subject: Re: seeking Air Cooled info/advice (82 Westy)
> > >
> > >Mah advice to yew...
> > >
> > >Check compression. All cylinders of the old engine. If
> >everything is up
> > >to
> > >snuff, replace all the peripherals and get it running
> >again. If not,
> > >the drop job is pretty easy (See Matthews posts). With an
> >engine hoist,
> > >whoowhee! No jacks to mess with, no blocks, nothing to slow
> >you down.
> > >
> > >Clutch position? Well, if you aren't going to replace it
> >(and I would),
> > >and
> > >just transfer it from one flywheel to the other, there is
> >no position
> > >that
> > >would make sense to mark. And mark on what? I suspect that
> >advice is to
> > >keep
> > >the pressure plate in the same relative position when you
> >are replacing
> > >it
> > >on the same engine. Only applicable if you are doing a
> >front main seal
> > >change. Of course, I would spend the 125 to 150 bucks to
> >replace the
> > >clutch
> > >(plate, pressure  plate,  and throwout bearing). Don't
> >forget the little
> > >shaft bearing in the end of the crankshaft. I mean, you're
> >in there
> > >anyway.
> > >
> > >Longitivity of an Aircooled? About 24 inches front to back.
> > >
> > >tim in san jose
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >>Howdy Listees,
> > >>
> > >>Good meeting some of you at the Van-o-rama last weekend.
> > >>
> > >>Background:
> > >>On my way home I had arranged to pick up a complete engine
> >assembly
> > >from an
> > >>81 that was rebuilt 30K ago.  My vehicle was purchased as
> >salvage but
> > >is in
> > >>beautiful condition except for an engine compartment fire
> >that melted
> > >parts
> > >>of the peripheral components.  The burnt engine has 95K
> >original miles.
> > >I
> > >>have an engine hoist, jack stands and a fairly
> >comprehensive tool
> > >>collection,
> > >>but have never removed a VW engine. (my experience is with
> >aircraft
> > >>reciprocating engines).
> > >>
> > >>My Questions for you:
> > >>1. What is the average longevity of the 2.0l air-cooled
> >when properly
> > >>maintained?
> > >>2. Should I simply replace the peripherals on the burnt
> >engine avoiding
> > >the
> > >>r&
> > >>r process?
> > >>3. If r&r is recommended, is there an easy to follow step-
> >by-step
> > >posted
> > >>anywhere on the list?
> > >>3. I noticed in the Haines manual that it is important to
> >mark the
> > >clutch
> > >>position when removing the engine, this makes me nervous
> >about the r&r.
> > >>What
> > >>is the position mark for and is there a way to figure it
> >out on the
> > >donor
> > >>engine?
> > >>
> > >>TIA for your assistance with this project!
> > >>Salud!
> > >>Loretta Abbott-Kennon
> > >>I
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >____________________________________________________________
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