After many years of using floor jacks for this I also now use a hoist to
lower the engines to a plywood sheet and then pull the wood out to get
the engine clear of the body. I put the rear wheels on wheel ramps first
to give room to work and for the engine to slide out.

I made my own hoist for this by building an "A" frame out of metal and
hanging a come-along from the top bar. The "A" frame bridges the engine
lid opening and the top bar barely fits under the Westy ceiling cabinet.
Many VW engines, including the waterboxers, have 2 factory provided
loops on the top for just this purpose. Don't know about AC models. I
bolt a piece of chain between the provided eyes and then  hook the cable
to a spot that provides the desired balance point.

I started using this system when I became a diesel Vanagon owner. The
top heavy left side tilt of these engines makes balancing the engine on
a floor jack a dicey proposition. Plus the ability to swing the engine
as needed makes removal and reinstallation of the mounting bolts much
easier. Aligning the clutch splines with the tranny shaft is easier
also.

By not having the jack under the engine the body does not have to be
raised as much to slide the engine out from under it. Makes a big
difference with taller engines like the inline 4 and 5 cyls I mostly
have now.

Mark

Aristotle Sagan wrote:
>
> Thankyou Chris.
>
> I didn't think it needed explaining. The ornerynest part of the engine
> removals I have done (1 aircooled, 1 watercooled) were futzing with the
> floorjacks, placing 4x4s, lifting with a long prybar to lower the engine
> finally to the ground, etc., etc. I like the  concept of tying that thing up
> secure, removing the bolts and lowering the engine to the ground, sliding it
> off the transmission shaft as you go along. Put it on a skidder plate made
> of 1/2 CDX plywood and pull it out.
>
> tim in san jose (sorry I were so obtuse)
>
>  >
> >