Fram has a product out called easy drain or something like that.  It has a
piece that threads into your pan and stays there.  This piece has threads
on it.  When you want to drain your oil, you thread on this short hose, and
it opens a valve in the stay-on-the-engine piece and your oil drains
out.  When you are not draining your oil, there is a cap that goes on it
top protect its threads.  It is about $15.  You could JB weld the drain
plug replacing piece to the engine if your threads were too weak to hold it
solid.

I didn't think the wasserboxer had an oil pan.  I thought the drain plug
threaded into the bottom of the crankcase?

Edward

At 11/6/02 11:10 AM, you wrote:
>I've got a problem that I'm sure everybody has delt with at some point in
>their lives. Last time i changed the oil the engine was really hot. i had to
>reuse the crush ring and unforunately stripped the casing a small bit. 3000
>miles later not a drop has leaked and it's time again to change. how should
>I handle this?
>I went to get more crush rings from the dealer this morning and was told I'd
>have to replace the pan! errghh!
>I'm not too sure about that. Any suggestions?
>Thanks!
>-Mike
>
>
>
>
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