

| Subject: | Re: Blue LED instrument lighting |
| From: | Joseph Fortino |
| Date: | Fri, 6 Dec 2002 13:46:03 -0800 |
screen shot? what a write up On 06 Dec 2002, Alistair Bell wrote: > I was inspired by the German site and by > Roger's work so yesterday at work while > waiting for some E. coli to grow, I tried my > hand a making a LED dash light. > > materials: > > red LED from bike light. Unsoldered from > little board, which of course meant it only > had very short "legs". Checked out to be > approx. 1.8 V and a narrow beam spread (20 > degrees?). "Flattened" area at base of LED > indicates the negative post. > > resistor - 470 - 500 ohm > (calculation/estimation based on a dash > voltage of 10V and a LED voltage of 1.8) > > dash light bulb holder. > > some 22 gauge telfon insulated tinned copper > wire (scraps at hand) > > heat shrink tubing. > > > Method (made up as I went along): > > drilled 1/16" hole in base of bulb holder. > Soldered 1" lengths of wire to the legs of the > LED. shrunk small lengths of heat shrink over > the solder joints. Cut one of the lengths of > wire back to aprox 1/4" and removed > insulation. Tinned/soldered the exposed wire > to make solid. Bent that back upon itself to > make a tight "V". > > The other wire is fed down through the bulb > holder and out the drilled hole, The LED is > pressed into the holder with the bent wire > making contact with one of the internal bulb > holder contact. The LED is a good fit and the > bulb holder itself "stretches" a little to > hold it in tight. I marked with a felt pen the > side of the bulb holder that the LED was > making contact with the internal contacts. > > The wire sticking out of the base was trimmed > a little and leg (trimmed also) of the > resistor soldered to it. A very short length > of wire was soldered to the other leg of the > resistor. > > The free end of the short length of wire was > soldered to the "topside" ie the side that > does not come in contact with the circuit > foil. This is a tricky part, you'll see how to > solder it when/if you do it! > > A bit of heat shrink over the resistor and > wires and its done! > > One has a 50% percent chance of getting it > right when you twist it into the circuit > foil, I don't know if these LEDs "pop" if > full voltage is applied "backwards" so I > inserted into foil with dash light rheostat > turned way down. > > > Well it works, but as Roger found too, the > beam is quite narrow and only illuminates the > top half of the gauge. The little reflector > assembly might be modified (foil inside?) but > better to have a wider beam spread LED. > > Inserted into the centre position, that is the > bulb that lights up the idiot lights, the LED > illuminates all of the icons but not evenly. > > > The LED does dim with the rheostat, but does > not go out at the lowest/dimmest setting. > > But I think it was a worthwhile exercise, now > I'll go get a range of LEDs and experiment > further. > > Alistair > > -- > '82 Westy -> diesel converted to gas in '94 > albell@uvic.ca http://members.shaw.ca/albell
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