In a message dated 12/11/02 9:21:33 AM, drillock@earthlink.net writes:

<< George, he said to swap the 2 plug wires, namely both ends. He could
have stated this more clearly. The swapping of the injector wires will
help isolate an injector wiring problem versus an injector problem. The
goal in both cases was to determine the reason why a given cylinder
appears to not be working at idle. >>

Mark,

As I said before, this exercise proves nothing.  It does not proof out the 
ignition wires, the injectors nor the injector wiring.  About all it 
demonstrates is that the connectors are not frozen to their respective 
terminals.  While all this swapping is occurring, please try to swap in a 
little reason.

Swapping plug wires will prove something IF a known good wire is swapped with 
the suspect wires one at a time.  Swapping injector wires will help isolate 
the source of the problem IF the injectors are pulled so that they can be 
observed during the swap fest.  But, swapping as described previously proves 
nothing.

Anyway, all this ignores what Eric claims to have done to date and the 
description of the problem:

In a message dated 12/10/02 7:42:09 PM, eunrau@YAHOO.CA writes:

<< 1) At first engine wouldn’t start.  Flooding?  Pulled the plugs - they

are BLACK.  Changed the plugs, rotor & cap (overdue anyway)

2) Engine starts.  Runs rough.  Exhaust smells like fuel.

3) Plenty of exhaust pressure at the tailpipe.  Does this rule out a

plugged cat?

4) unplugged the O2 sensor - no change - still rich and rough

5) Maybe a bad injector?  Decided I'd unplug injector wires one at a

time to see what would happen:

Unplug wires at cylinder #3 - idles much rougher, plug back in

Unplug wires at cylinder #4 - no change to idle, plug back in

Unplug wires at cylinder #1 - idles much rougher, plug back in

Unplug wires at cylinder #2 - no change to idle, plug back in

Does this mean that injectors #2 & #4 have failed???

 >>

George