

| Subject: | Re: repairing the idle stabilizer unit |
| From: | Mike Finkbiner |
| Date: | Thu, 19 Dec 2002 04:28:01 +0000 |
gary hradek <hradek@YAHOO.COM> said:
Matthew,
Not sure that you can always repair them but If
you have the time you might pop open the relay and try
cleaning the contacts of the relay itself. Look for
something like pitted points. If it is the
electromagnetic coil, give it the sniff test and pitch
it if it is not working and smells bad. How does the
relay appear bad to you? gary
<SNIP>
Gary -
Matthew and I have been talking about mine. It starts fine and runs ok on
the highway, but once it's warm, the idle wavers a bit around 8-900 rpm,
then the engine seems to quit for a second, and picks back up. Once in
awhile, when it pick back up, the idle jumps to about 1200 rpm and then
subsides back to 8-900.
I've tried two ECUs with identical results. I tried running with the idle
stabilizer valve (on top of the engine) disconnected, but no change, so I'm
suspicious of the idle stablilizer relay (by the taillight).
My digitool doesn't show any odd readings for the AFM or Temp II sensor.
The O2 sensor is bouncing around like normal, although it does seem to be
spending more time below .5 than above.
If we had a better place to work I would see if Matthew and I could swap
units, but working outside in the dark is not too attractive right now.
Maybe over Christmas I can open mine up and see what it looks like.
Anything else that could be causing those symptoms? Is this a problem
that's likely to strand me someplace, or just make running around town a
problem?
- Mike
Mike Finkbiner
'87 Westy
Moscow, ID
mike_l_f@hotmail.com
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