Mathew, Mike and Gary

There are no points inside the idle stabilizer relay. This unit is a specialized ECU dedicated to adjusting the Idle Stabilizer Valve. It usually fails because the power transistor is over worked and over heats. You can replace this transistor but the cause of the overloading should also be chased down or the unit will fail again eventually.
With the plug disconnected from the Idle Stabilizer Valve, the Idle Stabilizer Relay is no longer controlling anything. If you still have a problem when the plug is pulled, then the Idle Stabilizer Relay is not the cause of your problem.

I have found two other causes of unstable idle that may be worth checking. One is if the gasket sleeve on the injectors didn't seal properly the idle will oscillate. I tested this by putting my finger on the injector and pressed and wiggled it. The idle changed so I rebent the "eye glasses" shaped holder for the injectors. The other cause of erratic idle can be a dirty Idle Stabilizer Valve. If you remove the valve and flush it with Carb Cleaner or such then blow dry and then lube with light oil you may get the valve to seat properly and remove the idle problem

Good luck both of you
Larry 

 << Matthew,
         Not sure that you can always repair them but If
  you have the time you might pop open the relay and try
  cleaning the contacts of the relay itself.   Look for
  something like pitted points.   If it is the
  electromagnetic coil, give it the sniff test and pitch
  it if it is not working and smells bad.  How does the
  relay appear bad to you?   gary
<SNIP>

Gary -

Matthew and I have been talking about mine.  It starts fine and runs ok on
the highway, but once it's warm, the idle wavers a bit around 8-900 rpm,
then the engine seems to quit for a second, and picks back up.  Once in
awhile, when it pick  back up, the idle jumps to about 1200 rpm and then
subsides back to 8-900.

I've tried two ECUs with identical results.   I tried running with the idle
stabilizer valve (on top of the engine) disconnected, but no change, so I'm
suspicious of the idle stablilizer relay (by the taillight).

My digitool doesn't show any odd readings for the AFM or Temp II sensor.
The O2 sensor is bouncing around like normal, although it does seem to be
spending more time below .5 than above.

If we had a better place to work I would see if Matthew and I could swap
units, but working outside in the dark is not too attractive right now.

Maybe over Christmas I can open mine up and see what it looks like.

Anything else that could be causing those symptoms?  Is this a problem
that's likely to strand me someplace, or just make running around town a
problem?

- Mike

Mike Finkbiner
'87 Westy
Moscow, ID
mike_l_f@hotmail.com