In a message dated 1/9/03 12:28:03 AM, openwhel@BELLSOUTH.NET writes:

<< I would add to your list
of "Before alignment steps": Check tire pressure, road check, then.......

Center the steering rack, before centering the tie rod ends. There is an

alignment "slot" on the shaft as it comes out of the rack, align it with the

raised "boss" on the rack, then center the steering wheel (if needed), and

lock it down, then base adjust your tie rod ends. Adjust camber, and finally

set the toe. >>

Howard,

The Devil is in the details.  Thanks for the proper procedure.  I haven't
paid much attention lately, do alignment shops still weight the driver's seat?

Some time ago, I swapped a manual rack into a 240 Volvo.  I cranked in some
toe-in just so that I could use it for a couple of days until the alignment
shop could take it.  During the wait, I had to parallel park in a really
tight space.  I wasn't sure I could fit it in, but I always felt that parking
a car in a tight spot was some kind of measure of my driving skill, if not my
machismo.  When I cut it in, it almost slid in sideways because the steering
was so far from centered.  Now, there were two guys in a pickup behind me and
they were aptly impressed with my parking.  As they went past, the passenger
called to me,"Wow!  Those Volvo's can really cut an angle!"

Here's the kicker: A few weeks later I was in a bar swapping lies with a
buddy and telling him about the Volvo I had just redone.  A guy downstream
from us got wind of our conversation and asked me if those 240's can really
turn on a dime like everyone says.  Oh yes, the power of the urban legend.

George