that is good advise Joel, thanks for taking the time
to help out. i have swapped in 2 new temp 2 sensors,
no change. even though the aux air regulator is new, i
took it back out and doused it with carb cleaner, and
it is getting juice. the van behaves no differently
with the idle stabilizer bypassed, so i don't think it
is the culprit. i even sprayed down the inside of the
throttle valve with carb cleaner, hoping maybe
something was sticking. no help...im just about out of
ideas once i go over all the grounds and poke around
this weekend. after that i will have to surrender and
take it in to the shop and bend over...thanks again.
sw

--- Joel Walker <jwalker17@earthlink.net> wrote:
> > once it is a bit warmer, this does not happen. any
> > ideas as to what might cause this to happen?
> thanks
>
> that's the key .. your problem is in the
> cold-start/cold-idle
> part of the system.
> and there are three major components ...
> - the coolant temp sensor. my favorite suspect. :)
> about $20 for
> a new one (be sure to get a new rubber o-ring at the
> same time).
> it's the blue body one, sticking out of the
> thermostat. it kinda
> sounds like the old one is dead in 'warm mode': make
> the computer
> think the engine is always warm ... runs ok when the
> engine
> really is warm, but doesn't give the extra gas
> needed when the
> engine is cold (like the old choke on the carburetor
> buses).
>
> - the aux air regulator. silverly trumpet
> (?)-looking thingie,
> with a hose going into each end, and an electrical
> connector on
> one end, under the hose connection. this thing
> allows extra air
> for the extra fuel that the coolant temp sensor is
> supposed to
> tell the computer to give to the engine. if this
> thing is stuck
> closed (gunked up by fumes from the crankcase over
> all those
> years), you get no extra air. when the regulator
> warms up (the
> electrical connector), it shuts off the air. you can
> try cleaning
> it with generic carb cleaner ...spray it liberally
> into the hose
> connection ends, let it dry and do it again. three
> or four
> sprayings usually clean out the gunk.
>
> - the idle stabilizer module. flat thingie on the
> wall over by
> the ignition coil. but usually this guy only messes
> up the
> idling, not the starting.  it has two (2) wiring
> connectors
> plugged into the bottom of it. the test to see if
> it's working is
> to (engine off) unplug the two and plug them
> together (to each
> other), then crank the engine. if the idle improves,
> the module
> is bad.

>

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