Ben are you covering both 2WD and syncro? I saw your repack
kit, it looks interesting.

Thanks,
Chris

---- Original message ----
>Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 07:49:13 -0700
>From: Ben McCafferty <ben@VOLKSCAFE.COM>
>Subject: Re: CV Joints
>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>
>Art et al,
>I will be posting a very detailed article on CV removal,
diagnosis,
>maintenance and replacement in the next day or two on the
Volks Cafe site.
>I will post to the list when it goes up.  In the meantime, I
wanted to let
>you know that CVs aren't as bad as everyone makes them out
to be--they can
>be a fun job if you take your time.  A couple of things I
want to mention
>about the two posts below.  If you use liquid wrench, use it
only in the
>bolt heads.  Do not attempt to get it on the threads.  The
threads will not
>be frozen, and if you have broken caps on the driveshaft
flange, you risk
>getting the solvent into the tranny.  Secondly, before you
can drive the
>joint off the shaft, there is a circlip on the shaft that
must be removed.
>
>As mentioned, I'll post when the article goes online, and it
will answer all
>questions you might have about this topic.
>tx,
>bmc  :)
>Ben McCafferty
>ben@volkscafe.com
>
>Volks Cafe
>1823 Soquel Avenue
>Santa Cruz, CA  95062
>831-426-1244
>http://www.volkscafe.com
>
>
>> From: Adrian Bertarelli <adrian.bertarelli@ATTBI.COM>
>> Reply-To: Adrian Bertarelli <adrian.bertarelli@ATTBI.COM>
>> Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 10:08:08 -0700
>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>> Subject: Re: CV Joints
>>
>> Taking the rear axles out can be a sticky job.  The best
advise I had
>> was to make sure you clean the heads of the bolts that are
in the rear
>> trailing arm.  If you clean them real good and then spray
some liquid
>> wrench on their they start coming out a little easier.
The worst is
>> breaking or stripping a head of one of those suckers.
Opens a whole new
>> world of pain.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Vanagon Mailing List
[mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
>> Of David Robertson
>> Sent: Sunday, January 19, 2003 9:37 AM
>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>> Subject: Re: CV Joints
>>
>> Removing the joints is as you describe- just removing the
six bolts on
>> each end of each axle.  The outer bolts can be difficult
to get to
>> because they are inside the rear trailing arm (atleast
they are on my
>> 82).  A ratchet extension is used and as long as you can
get the bolts
>> loose; you should not have any problems.
>>
>> A press is not necessary to remove the joint from the
axle.  They can be
>> difficult to remove if tight, but all that is needed is to
carefully
>> hammer the shaft down through the joint.  I use an old
socket that is
>> smaller than the shaft and place the joint on top of a
vice with the
>> axle hanging down.  then hammer the inside of the shaft
down through the
>> joint.
>>
>> You will need some sort of manual that describes how to
dissasemble,
>> clean, inspect, and regrease the joints.  Or just get new
ones.  You can
>> now even buy the entire axle and joints already assembled
as a unit.
>> This might be the best option if time is a factor.
>>
>> Definatly do both joints on the same axle at the same
time.  It isnt
>> absolutly necessary to do both axles at the same time, but
a good idea.
>>
>> Make sure you properly torque the bolts down on
reassmbly.  Check the
>> bolts after you drive it.  They WILL come loose if not
torqued properly.
>>
>> The entire process is very messy and can be time
consuming.  There is
>> nothing really difficult about it and it doesnt take any
special tools
>> other than the right socket allen/star tool (there are 2
types of bolts
>> in use, not sure which one you will have).  The only
problem you may
>> find is if the outer bolts are tight and you strip them.
>>
>>
>> dr
>>
>>
>>
>> Art Beutler <abeutler@COX.NET> wrote:
>>
>>> My 86 vanagon has recently developed a noise sounding
like metal
>> striking
>>> metal originating from the rear somewhere.  This rate of
the striking
>> noise
>>> is proportional to speed and it pretty much goes away
when the clutch
>> is
>>> engaged and sometimes at higher speeds.  Having had a
look thorough
>> previous
>>> postings for such noises, it is pretty likely that this
is caused by a
>> bad
>>> CV joint.
>>>
>>> I have not crawled under the vehicle yet but I have read
that I should
>> be
>>> able to find the bad CV joint by checking for fore and
aft play; I will
>>> undertake this task tomorrow.  My main question is: how
hard are these
>> to
>>> change and how does one go about doing it.  The shop
manual starts with
>> the
>>> axle shaft already removed - is this a simple matter of
loosening the
>> bolts
>>> on either end and pulling it out or is there more to it?
Once the axle
>>> shaft is removed, the manual implies that a press is
required to remove
>> the
>>> old CV joints - is this really true?  Are there any
alternatives?  If
>> one
>>> gets past this point, are there any tricks to reassembly?
>>>
>>> Also, if there is no obvious cause of failure (ie damaged
boot) of the
>> bad
>>> CV joint, can the others be expected to last much longer
or should I
>> change
>>> them all?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Art
>> Beutler
>>>
>>
>>
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