David;
        Here is how I did it. If memory serves me I bought everything at
PEP BOYS, which was two metric-to-standard converters and a remote oil
pressure gauge installation kit. The kind with ten feet of tiny flexible
hose. This allowed me to install the senders on the wall near the coil. I
attached the senders with a "C" clamp (like the ones used to attach TV
antennas to poles). There were already two predrilled holes there that
lined up perfectly. I believe there is a picture on my web page.
        Latter on I added a common plumbing tee for the original sender.
The pressure switch in the sender closes at a higher pressure so I was
getting worrysome allarms. Now the extra pressure switch is hooked up to
an LED next to the gauges as a sort of early warning device.
        The gauges reside in the plastic console just behind and above
the shift boot.

Good Luck and Drive Safely
Ken Lewis
86 Crewcab, 60 356 T-5
http://Neksiwel.20m.com/

On Thu, 13 Feb 2003 20:42:09 -0500 (EST) David Brodbeck
<gull@cyberspace.org> writes:
> On Thu, 13 Feb 2003 kdlewis@juno.com wrote:
>
> > You are probably right, as long as you never have to undo it.
> What
> > happens then? Like after a rebuild. At the best you have a
> cross-thread
> > situation, at the worst threads fall out (or in). I plan on
> keeping my
> > truck a long time. I have spent a lot of money and time doing
> things
> > correctly. To intentionally screw a tapered, standard pipe thread
> into a
> > straight metric hole goes against my grain.
>
> In that case, can you suggest a source for M10 tees and nipples, or
> at
> least M10 to 1/8NPT adapters?  I can't find them *anywhere*.
>
>              _ _
>   __ _ _   _| | |  | David M. Brodbeck (N8SRE)
> Ypsilanti, MI
>  / _` | | | | | |
> +-----------------------------------------------------
> | (_| | |_| | | | @ cyberspace.org
>  \__, |\__,_|_|_| "Everything is linear if plotted log-log with a
> fat
>  |___/             magic marker." -- Mar's Law
>
>
>