Is anyone beside me thinking he should check the torque on the lug nuts as
well as the crown nut to see if things are loose?
tx,
bmc  :)
Ben McCafferty
ben@volkscafe.com

Volks Cafe
1823 Soquel Avenue
Santa Cruz, CA  95062
831-426-1244
http://volkscafe.com

> From: Tracy Bonin <icculus22420@YAHOO.COM>
> Reply-To: Tracy Bonin <icculus22420@YAHOO.COM>
> Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 12:58:33 -0800
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: rear wheel wobble
>
> Well, actually from what I learned in class last week ( I am going to Baran
> Institute of Tech for Automotive Technology :-) ) ( I am in chassis portion
> right now ) , is that the races aren't sealed to the cage that the bearings go
> into. The race is within the wheel, the cage is within that, the bearings are
> within the cage. The bearing lube is between / inside the cage with the
> bearings. It has the ability to seep out, and get nasty enough to where as a
> change in grease can help emensly, if not fix the problem if the bearing
> itself isn't damaged.
> To re-pack a wheel bearing, put a glob of the bearing grease in the palm of
> your hand and hold the bearing with the other. Hold a specific spot on the
> bearing (so theres a space between for the goop to get through), and scrap
> away at the glob until the old nasty crap comes out of the top. Do this around
> the whole bearing. This is repacking. You can also buy a bearing repacker,
> which will do the work pretty much for you. If the bearing isn't damaged, then
> this would be fine matienence. However, if when you turn the bearing in the
> beginning with your fingers from the inside you feel any bumps or any
> discrepancies while it's turning, then replace it. If for any reason the race,
> or anything is damaged replace it. All parts should still be smooth. If there
> are gouges, cracks, flat spots, anything like that then replace it.
> I haven't done the bearings on my bus yet, only on other cars in class, so
> things might be slightly different, although I thought that most wheel bearing
> were pretty much universal. Also I'm no expert yet. This is what I've learned
> on the subject so far..........  :-)
> have fun,
> Tracy
> 85' GL "Ripple"
> Damon Campbell <damoncampbellvw@YAHOO.COM> wrote:Ok, so honestly, most of my
> mechanic experience comes from working on bicycles (paid a lot of college that
> way...), so maybe this doesn't apply because automotive bearings are different
> than the light duty ones they use on bikes...
>
> If there is play in a sealed cartridge (ie. non-adjustable) bearing, will a
> re-pack really do anything? The clearances between balls and races have
> already opened up, right? The most i can see a repack doing is making it feel
> "tight" when subjected to the nonexistant forces our measly fingers can put
> out. Am i missing something here?
> -damon
>
> Tracy Bonin wrote:Hi, what you can do is run your fingers along the inside of
> the bearing, pressing on them, as the bearing is turning you should be able to
> feel anything that may mean the bearings need to be re-packed, or replaced. If
> you just have some play, that probably just means that they need to be
> re-packed, a simple and quick process, just messy.
>
> '84 Westy
>
>
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