Nah! That is way too simple to be a Vanagon solution.

Stan Wilder

On Wed, 19 Feb 2003 14:24:58 -0700 Ben McCafferty <ben@VOLKSCAFE.COM>
writes:
> Is anyone beside me thinking he should check the torque on the lug
> nuts as
> well as the crown nut to see if things are loose?
> tx,
> bmc  :)
> Ben McCafferty
> ben@volkscafe.com
>
> Volks Cafe
> 1823 Soquel Avenue
> Santa Cruz, CA  95062
> 831-426-1244
> http://volkscafe.com
>
>
> > From: Tracy Bonin <icculus22420@YAHOO.COM>
> > Reply-To: Tracy Bonin <icculus22420@YAHOO.COM>
> > Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 12:58:33 -0800
> > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > Subject: Re: rear wheel wobble
> >
> > Well, actually from what I learned in class last week ( I am going
> to Baran
> > Institute of Tech for Automotive Technology :-) ) ( I am in
> chassis portion
> > right now ) , is that the races aren't sealed to the cage that the
> bearings go
> > into. The race is within the wheel, the cage is within that, the
> bearings are
> > within the cage. The bearing lube is between / inside the cage
> with the
> > bearings. It has the ability to seep out, and get nasty enough to
> where as a
> > change in grease can help emensly, if not fix the problem if the
> bearing
> > itself isn't damaged.
> > To re-pack a wheel bearing, put a glob of the bearing grease in
> the palm of
> > your hand and hold the bearing with the other. Hold a specific
> spot on the
> > bearing (so theres a space between for the goop to get through),
> and scrap
> > away at the glob until the old nasty crap comes out of the top. Do
> this around
> > the whole bearing. This is repacking. You can also buy a bearing
> repacker,
> > which will do the work pretty much for you. If the bearing isn't
> damaged, then
> > this would be fine matienence. However, if when you turn the
> bearing in the
> > beginning with your fingers from the inside you feel any bumps or
> any
> > discrepancies while it's turning, then replace it. If for any
> reason the race,
> > or anything is damaged replace it. All parts should still be
> smooth. If there
> > are gouges, cracks, flat spots, anything like that then replace
> it.
> > I haven't done the bearings on my bus yet, only on other cars in
> class, so
> > things might be slightly different, although I thought that most
> wheel bearing
> > were pretty much universal. Also I'm no expert yet. This is what
> I've learned
> > on the subject so far..........  :-)
> > have fun,
> > Tracy
> > 85' GL "Ripple"
> > Damon Campbell <damoncampbellvw@YAHOO.COM> wrote:Ok, so honestly,
> most of my
> > mechanic experience comes from working on bicycles (paid a lot of
> college that
> > way...), so maybe this doesn't apply because automotive bearings
> are different
> > than the light duty ones they use on bikes...
> >
> > If there is play in a sealed cartridge (ie. non-adjustable)
> bearing, will a
> > re-pack really do anything? The clearances between balls and races
> have
> > already opened up, right? The most i can see a repack doing is
> making it feel
> > "tight" when subjected to the nonexistant forces our measly
> fingers can put
> > out. Am i missing something here?
> > -damon
> >
> > Tracy Bonin wrote:Hi, what you can do is run your fingers along
> the inside of
> > the bearing, pressing on them, as the bearing is turning you
> should be able to
> > feel anything that may mean the bearings need to be re-packed, or
> replaced. If
> > you just have some play, that probably just means that they need
> to be
> > re-packed, a simple and quick process, just messy.
> >
> > '84 Westy
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Shopping - Send Flowers for Valentine's Day
>
>

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