Point conceded.
bmc  :)
Ben McCafferty
ben@volkscafe.com

Volks Cafe
1823 Soquel Avenue
Santa Cruz, CA  95062
831-426-1244
http://volkscafe.com

> From: Stan Wilder <wilden1@JUNO.COM>
> Reply-To: Stan Wilder <wilden1@JUNO.COM>
> Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 16:23:15 -0600
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: rear wheel wobble
>
> Nah! That is way too simple to be a Vanagon solution.
>
> Stan Wilder
>
> On Wed, 19 Feb 2003 14:24:58 -0700 Ben McCafferty <ben@VOLKSCAFE.COM>
> writes:
>> Is anyone beside me thinking he should check the torque on the lug
>> nuts as
>> well as the crown nut to see if things are loose?
>> tx,
>> bmc  :)
>> Ben McCafferty
>> ben@volkscafe.com
>>
>> Volks Cafe
>> 1823 Soquel Avenue
>> Santa Cruz, CA  95062
>> 831-426-1244
>> http://volkscafe.com
>>
>>
>>> From: Tracy Bonin <icculus22420@YAHOO.COM>
>>> Reply-To: Tracy Bonin <icculus22420@YAHOO.COM>
>>> Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 12:58:33 -0800
>>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>>> Subject: Re: rear wheel wobble
>>>
>>> Well, actually from what I learned in class last week ( I am going
>> to Baran
>>> Institute of Tech for Automotive Technology :-) ) ( I am in
>> chassis portion
>>> right now ) , is that the races aren't sealed to the cage that the
>> bearings go
>>> into. The race is within the wheel, the cage is within that, the
>> bearings are
>>> within the cage. The bearing lube is between / inside the cage
>> with the
>>> bearings. It has the ability to seep out, and get nasty enough to
>> where as a
>>> change in grease can help emensly, if not fix the problem if the
>> bearing
>>> itself isn't damaged.
>>> To re-pack a wheel bearing, put a glob of the bearing grease in
>> the palm of
>>> your hand and hold the bearing with the other. Hold a specific
>> spot on the
>>> bearing (so theres a space between for the goop to get through),
>> and scrap
>>> away at the glob until the old nasty crap comes out of the top. Do
>> this around
>>> the whole bearing. This is repacking. You can also buy a bearing
>> repacker,
>>> which will do the work pretty much for you. If the bearing isn't
>> damaged, then
>>> this would be fine matienence. However, if when you turn the
>> bearing in the
>>> beginning with your fingers from the inside you feel any bumps or
>> any
>>> discrepancies while it's turning, then replace it. If for any
>> reason the race,
>>> or anything is damaged replace it. All parts should still be
>> smooth. If there
>>> are gouges, cracks, flat spots, anything like that then replace
>> it.
>>> I haven't done the bearings on my bus yet, only on other cars in
>> class, so
>>> things might be slightly different, although I thought that most
>> wheel bearing
>>> were pretty much universal. Also I'm no expert yet. This is what
>> I've learned
>>> on the subject so far..........  :-)
>>> have fun,
>>> Tracy
>>> 85' GL "Ripple"
>>> Damon Campbell <damoncampbellvw@YAHOO.COM> wrote:Ok, so honestly,
>> most of my
>>> mechanic experience comes from working on bicycles (paid a lot of
>> college that
>>> way...), so maybe this doesn't apply because automotive bearings
>> are different
>>> than the light duty ones they use on bikes...
>>>
>>> If there is play in a sealed cartridge (ie. non-adjustable)
>> bearing, will a
>>> re-pack really do anything? The clearances between balls and races
>> have
>>> already opened up, right? The most i can see a repack doing is
>> making it feel
>>> "tight" when subjected to the nonexistant forces our measly
>> fingers can put
>>> out. Am i missing something here?
>>> -damon
>>>
>>> Tracy Bonin wrote:Hi, what you can do is run your fingers along
>> the inside of
>>> the bearing, pressing on them, as the bearing is turning you
>> should be able to
>>> feel anything that may mean the bearings need to be re-packed, or
>> replaced. If
>>> you just have some play, that probably just means that they need
>> to be
>>> re-packed, a simple and quick process, just messy.
>>>
>>> '84 Westy
>>>
>>>
>>> ---------------------------------
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>>> Yahoo! Shopping - Send Flowers for Valentine's Day
>>
>>
>
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