Most of it is there. No engine or trans. all the little trinkets are there.
P-mail me for details. Will ship anything. TIA

Chris DeLong
ICQ#45030867
Seattle, WA USA
'80 16V 'Rocco ragtop
'91 GLi 2.0 16V (for sale)
'77 Rabbit 16V
'61 17 Window type II
'91 Vanagon
'84 Jetta

>From: Jeffrey Schwaia <jeff@TSSGI.COM>
>Reply-To: Jeffrey Schwaia <jeff@TSSGI.COM>
>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>Subject: Re: To All Tiico Owners:  Solutions To Every Tiico Conversion
>         Question
>Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 11:06:44 -0800
>
>A lot of good information, but next time park your condescending attitude
>in
>your shop.  More people will listen if you don't come off so arrogant...
>
>Cheers,
>
>Jeff
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM]On Behalf
>Of Jon
>Sent: Monday, March 03, 2003 9:26 PM
>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>Subject: To All Tiico Owners: Solutions To Every Tiico Conversion
>Question
>
>
>I've been a member for all of three days and I must first start by thanking
>"Gerald Masar", "Tom Young", and "Chris Delong" for pointing out that this
>forum is rapidly becoming "full of fluff".  Don't just click the delete
>key,
>hear what I have to say and then I'll go for good after I withstand the
>oncoming onslaught.
>
>I own a VW specialty shop in Maine (Bay, Vanagon, Eurovan, Splitty) with a
>staff of three (young to old) with a combined total of over 100 years
>experience (no joke).  Well that may not say much, but I'll tell ya I've
>had
>little interest in time consumers such as this web site until recently when
>my stomach turned sour from all the bologna out there regarding the Tiico
>conversion.  As conversion specialists for over 18 years we've done:
>Corvair, Pinto and Mustang 2.3L, Buicks, Mazda Rotaries 13A & 13B to Porche
>911 and for many years the Golf/Jetta CIS systems out of our own parts and
>design and I'm also sad to say the sorriest excuse in the Bunch - the
>Legacy
>2.2 (but that's for another day).
>
>In the past three years we've installed over 30 Tiico conversions.
>Probably
>in the neighborhood of 75 on the old CIS systems.  We're also part of a
>development team that completed and will very soon have available a chip
>and
>cam modification for the Tiico tested by Bosch and VW Racing of  SA that
>will make others (kits) very meek in comparison.  So I feel we have some
>experience in this area; enough to say that by far the Tiico kit is the
>cleanest on the market.  If that doesn't impress you, or you disagree and
>claim issues grab a soda,  this will take a little time.
>
>Recently a few customers forwarded emails to me regarding many of you out
>there appearing to try to "split the atom" when it comes to this kit.  My
>customers were not concerned because in part their vans have many miles of
>excellent running (from Vancouver to Mexico, to Montana, etc.)...they just
>thought I'd be interested in all the "Bad Rap" that they weren't
>experiencing.  I just chuckled and deleted at first until I started
>fielding
>calls from people with little to no experience bashing the product only
>because of this forum and asking us to do other installs.
>
>That's why I'm here and I'll gladly go head to head with any one of you to
>straighten out all this slander from a relatively small group of inept
>people with big mouths.
>
>Let's first deal with the so-claimed issues of Vibration.  My intent is not
>to appear pompous;  it's just to simply state the facts.  As I'm sure you
>know when it comes to mounting the Tiico kit is derived largely, if not
>solely, from it's sibling the diesel vanagon and '94 to '95 T-3 Volks Bus.
>The engine cradles are the most recent diesel supersession - so those out
>there spreading crap about the Tiico ones being old factory left-overs are
>wrong, so shut it. Vibration, especially on the diesels, was something the
>engineers put a great deal of time into...so all of you out there with all
>this "free time" of "re-inventing the wheel" on how to get rid of
>vibration...you may want to listen up.
>
>When installing the kit, just like any other, keep and adhere to simple
>engine installation principles.  I've had more vans with this kit show up
>here to be straightened out where other garages and DIY's have failed.  You
>never install an engine by tightening down on one mount and then simply "go
>around the horn" and then jam down on all the others.  You'll have
>vibration.  You must hang the engine and transmission loosely and
>manipulate
>both with proper support until they sit at home where they really need to
>go, not where one yanks them and tightens them to the body to make fit.
>You
>must tighten all hardware down evenly.  Also, common sense tells you if you
>have a bad front transmission mount (most are and seldom replaced), then
>that will drastically reduce the effectiveness of your engine mounts
>ability.  What about badly damaged rear bumpers?  How many vanagons do you
>actually see with a flawless rear bumper...Think about it:  if the van was
>hit hard enough to stuff the bumper into the rear vallance, then your frame
>where the brackets bolt may be bowed or slightly pushed in.  The latter
>would make it futile to impossible to limit all vibration.
>
>If all this is in order and complaints of vibration are still there, then:
>the half moon adapter plates supplied in the kit which allow for an upper
>third bolt to affix the cross members to the rear frame need to be welded.
>Here's why.  The diesel chassis already came with these pieces as part of
>the frame.  Some early waterboxer jobs came with one already there on the
>passenger side.  Some may say "Well that's not the problem."  Let me tell
>ya
>something.  If you don't weld these like they were on the diesels you may
>find in the future one tearing away from the chassis because of the stress
>to that upper third bolt...then you'll have more than vibration as an
>issue.
>Two tiny migwelds are all that are needed.  They can be done easily as well
>with the engine and transmission already in.  Support your engine and
>transaxle and remove your exhaust at the cat, and remove both engine
>cradles.  Next, snug the "half moon" plates to the frame with the 8mm x
>1.25
>bolts supplied and after a slight grinding to the bracket and frame to
>ensure a good weld, then mig a thin bead from north to south on both sides.
>Take your 8mm bolts out, support the engine and trans and set them into
>position and then tighten down on all hardware evenly.
>
>Next the left rear "D Pillar" fresh air snorkel...Use it...don't just make
>an attempt and sit it there left unattached and say "it was too hard to
>install..." and "it's not necessary..."  Well it is .
>
>Oh - for all you exhaust geniuses out there, pay attention:  Stop trying to
>re-invent a system that works great.  Stop cutting, hacking, and staving
>the
>header flex joint and welding to it etc....I've seen more cluster (you know
>whats) when it comes to this than any other.  It's not that hard.  Get a
>1.9L Vanagon mufler part # 025251051E or Ansa # VW 5845...they're cheap.
>Also, you must have complete vanagon 2.1L '86 - '91exhaust brackets and
>straps.  If you're too cheap to buy new ones call me, I have some we've
>built for less than 1/2.  Grab a Bently manual and look at the 1.9L exhaust
>picture section (very important).  The picture shows the correct flange
>positon, offset, and rotation of the cat and rear muffler.  With this
>exhaust it works perfect on the Boxer as well as the Tiico.  With the 2.1L
>brackets and straps and correct rotation positions you have an exhaust
>system that's tucked in tight, perfectly horizontal, with no stress on the
>header flex portion, and looks great.  These headers do not simply crack on
>their own.  They've been so incorrectly installed with
>cherry-bomb-after-market-garbage for silencers and all rotated the wrong
>way.  I haven't had one cracked header in 32 engines...don't you think if
>it
>was actually that big of a problem that I'd have one by now?
>
>If you have tirelessly attacked all of these issues - all of them - and are
>still dissatisfied, here's another tip.  The original diesel mount in the
>cradles as I mentioned earlier had the bolt going in from north to south or
>front to back of the vehicle instead of east to west.  They also were
>sandwiched between two welded pieces of flat stock to limit movement.  The
>newly designed cross members only have metal on one side with a dimple on
>it
>to mate with one side of the rubber mount.  The dimple must line up and
>mate.  The bolts also only go from east to west leaving the bolt head to
>absorb the entire flex of the mount.  This producing a noticeable a problem
>is extremely rare.  If you run across this as being a source of vibration
>simply cut a piece of flat stock with a 90 degree lip and a hole inthe
>center (for bolt) to sandwich the mount together on both sides and weld it
>to the crossmember.  Again, it's very rare you'd  get to this point but
>some
>vans have more harmonic vibrations than others.  You're talking less than
>10% for the fussiest of the fussy people who expect a cadillac ride out of
>a
>14 yr old van for all of $3.750.00 for the complete kit.
>
>Summary on exhaust and vibrations:
>     No engine or exhaust should ever be installed by tightening down on
>one
>unit then going to the next one.  All must be tightenend evenly together
>after both the engine and transmission are completely cop aesthetic with
>their correct orientation. Remember a transmission on it's way out thats
>been limping along, will only stick out that much more wtih a new engine
>with almost twice the horse power.  How are your carrier bearings?
>Mainshaft
>bearings? Syncro's?Front mount? take these seriously into consideration.
>
>Burnt pistons, fuel economy, and performance.  First of all, those of you
>without a VW/Audi Vag 1551, 1552, or assenmacher or equivalent diagnostic
>equipment, take a step back and really ask yourself, "Am I in over my
>head?"
>"Is it past my bedtime yet?"  OR at least maybe should I call someone who
>can straighten out all these items for me.  And the dealer may not be the
>answer either.  Not only have I not had a burnt piston in 32 engines; I've
>actually pulled apart and reassembled and correctly set up other garage's
>customers from the midwest to the east coast and they run beautifully with
>no issues of this type afterwards.  The Golf/Jetta inline is one of the
>most
>durable, easily assembled engines ever made.  If I was the factory I
>wouldn't warranty any burnt piston failures to you customers because they
>know as well as all you engine rebuilders out there know the chances of it
>being caused by any other than improper set up are nill to none.  I will
>explain why you get a burnt piston and why those of you who have had one
>fail,  fall into one of these catagories.
>
>I'm sure some of these you've heard already:  A bad Injector(s) that is
>re-used that was not working properly on your old boxer engine can't be
>re-used.  You must test them first.  If everybody knows this then...stop
>using them anyway.  So with this in mind...The only reason a piston burns
>up
>in 2000 miles or less is because of either a very lean condition, or so
>rich
>you have washed that cylinder down with fuel completely, or a valve has
>stayed stuck open or closed(which would cause either or).  Also, half of
>all
>vanagons out there, Tiico or not, are running with 33 to 37 lbs of fuel
>pressure and that is completely unacceptable.  Fuel pressure is exactly 29
>lbs.  No more, no less (Tiico or Boxer).  36 lbs with the vacuum
>disconnected.  If you're reusing your old pressure regulator do a fuel
>pressure and vacuum test and make sure your old one is good.  We replace 25
>or so Boxer customer's regulators a year...they all are at the same life
>cycle.
>
>I know, I know.  Many out there right now are saying well I did all that
>and
>it's still too lean.  Well here you go:  How advanced or improperly set is
>your timing and what is your ECU throwing for codes?  I always ask people
>about this and they say,"Oh, um, ah, - no codes at all, never had any."
>Well that's a lie.  Codes are created on start up by connecting the ground
>cable to the battery and must be cleared (every new car is like that).  So
>don't tell me that.  Every Tiico must have codes cleared first, or it
>cannot
>accept any parameter values.  Remember that Tiico timing and set up are not
>exactly the same as a Golf or Jetta in most details.  The only similarity
>is
>that the engine must be at operating temperature (fan cycled atleast once)
>with codes cleared before timing and basic setting are initiated.  I'm not
>being insulting but I've had more people on the phone who thought they knew
>how to use a digital advance timing light and they didn't.  It's just a
>fact
>and they can be a little confusing.
>
>The yellow arrow on the lower timing cover is 0 or TDC.  The yellow dot to
>the left of that is 6 BTDC.  It's hard to point the timing light through
>the
>license cover, so remove the two philips screws that hold the overflow tank
>in and remove (you will replace later).  Now you have easy access to the
>crank pulley notch.  With your RPM at 1450 NOT at IDLE Digitally set your
>gun to 10 to 12 degrees.  Loosen and rotate distributor till the crank
>pulley notch lines up exactly with the arrow "0" on the timing cover.  Lock
>down the distributor.  This eliminates guessing on the timing mark by
>bringing it around so you can see it.  Every other installation I've seen
>has been set up way advanced or way retarded.  Remember also - timing is
>set
>with engine RPM at 1450.  If you're using a Vag 1551 or 1552 after codes
>are
>cleared and mixture  adaptation within close range, go into basic setting
>prompt 04 under engine electronics and the Vag 1551 or 1552 will
>automatically raise the idle for you to 1450 through the ECU.  After timing
>is set and you cancel out of that screen the idle will drop back down to
>900 - 950.  Very simple.
>
>As I mentioned earlier, mixture adaptation has to be set prior to setting
>the timing for ecu reference and then again after with a sniff test of CO%.
>For those of you who don't know what a mixture adaptation setting is, again
>ask yourself the same questions mentioned earlier because now it's really
>getting late and way past your bedtime.  Fuel mixture adaptation is set and
>can vary according to your sea level and sniff pipe figures.  I suggest
>this
>number is discussed with your Tiico supplier, but for example here we are
>at
>sea level we set the mixture to 00128 - 00129 accordingly with our exhaust
>gas analyzer.  Some folks in extreme elevation may be nearer to 00136 or
>most extreme  00160.  Your on board diagnostics codes OBDII USE THEM will
>tell you if your mixture adaptation has exceeded it's limit.  Finally, for
>any of this to work your O2 sensor has to be wired  in correctly to the ECU
>and your sniff test must be at 0.725% to 1.25%.  We like 1.0% as it is
>usually a really safe number.  All of this is mentioned several times on
>tiico's installation guide and website.
>
>If Tiico is unavailable to help you with this,  contact me at
>jon@foreignautosupply.com and I'll help you.  Guarenteed one or several of
>these issues has to be off to burn a piston.  An engine doesn't just burn a
>piston or have poor fuel econmy because of assembly.  99 out of 100 times
>it
>is because of poor set up.  It's the number one reason people complain of
>17 - 18 mpg.  All of this info is easily accessible as I said to you on the
>Tiico web site.
>
>A final note on vibration, especially STD trans owners on  "harmonic hum".
>We install 5-speeds for many of our customers.  Any Vanagon, waterboxer or
>not, could use an extra gear.  The 5-speed is an excellent marriage to this
>or any other kit.
>
>  A final note on burnt pistons, fuel economy, and set up as well as
>performance.  The VW factory SA or not, knows as well as you engine
>builders
>out there the truth to these issues.  You guys have to stop being so
>passive
>aggressive and blaming others for "catastrophic engine failures" and
>realize
>either you or your installation site dropped the ball.
>  "Boston Bob" of Boston Engine Ex. and I have been friends for a long time
>and just recently we discussed the horrors of building a product and
>letting
>others finish the reassembly of things such as a simple longblock, etc.
>Then setting it up on their own.  Other than communication and hoping your
>customer follows all you've said you're kind of S.O.L.  This is a much
>bigger problem than you would think in the entire industry.  Tiico is not
>alone.  And believe me I'm not getting paid to say that. I'm not connected
>with Tiico in any way other than the fact that I buy the engines from them
>and are part of the development team.
>
>The only problems I see with this kit is that unfortunately they actually
>run pretty well for awhile even if they are set up poorly.  That makes it
>difficult for people to assume that there many be a "smoking gun".
>Secondly, I think Peter B. at Tiico has naively assumed that alot of you
>out
>there know what you are doing. Or read all his install instructions.
>
>Oh - and Greg Dodge, scorpion09a@yahoo.com whomever you are out there.  I
>present a challenge to you personally.  You seem to be running your suck
>more than anyone on the forum...get a U-Haul and cart your bus out here to
>us.  I'll fix it free of charge and show you what went wrong.  If not and
>I'm in the wrong, I'll build a boxer engine and install it for free for you
>or any other kit plus your U-haul charges.  Mainly because others out there
>aren't savy enough to know you're full of "fluff" and eventually you'll
>start hurting the VW business as a whole and this site with your slander,
>and that's not what this should be about.
>
>Jon@foreignautosupply;.com
>
>P.S. - If I can be of help to any of you please don't hesitate to contact
>me
>at (207) 833-0009.

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