Joachim Preiss wrote:

>I am planning to change the break fluid at the same time, as I don't know
>how old it is. Bleeding the breaks appears to be similar just times 4 for
>each wheel separately. On the other hand I got a feeling I shouldn't mess
>with the breaks as they're my parachute and I don't want that to fail.
>
>
Bleeding the brakes is very straight forward. If you don't wat to
pressure bleed but use an assistant it's easy. Just be sure your
assistant sitting in the driver seat has a turkey baster with clear
plastic tube and a can/bottle of brake fluid to keep the tank filled
while you bleed. I use NAPA brand DOT 4.

To bleed the brakes you need a piece of clear tubing and a clear bottle
of some sort. Should be at least the size of a coke bottle. Put the tube
ove the bleed port, and the other end in the bottle, and open the valve.
Have your assistant press the pedal repeatedly until you get clear
bubble free fluid coming out, then close the valve. You will be amazed
at the dirt and water that will come out.

The front brakes are really easy. Just turn  the steering wheel until
you can get to the caliper from the rear of the tire. To do the right
wheel, turn the steering wheel to the left, and vice versa.

The rear wheels require you get up under the van, unless you have the
wheels off. But the bleed principle is the same.

Finally, start with the right rear, then the left, then the left front
then the right front. By going from back to front you sort of get the
worst over first.

Joel Walker says that if you are bleeding the fluids, include bleeding
the clutch fluid as well while you are in the back by the slave
cylinder. Good move to follow.

Good Luck,

John Rodgers
88 GL Driver