I just finished rust treating a Westy.
I purchased rust treatment chemicals from a local Sherwin Williams paint
store. (Not a Sherwin Williams brand but the only product they had.)
Store manager said it was commonly used to treat metal buildings, oil
field equipment, farm implements before painting. He added "you don't
need to paint over it because it stops the rust at that point and finds
that pinpoint rust that you don't see hidden under bolt heads and
panels".
The rust inhibitor is phosphoric acid that converts rust to iron oxide.
There were many places that I could get to and remove or perform a really
good rust treatment on and others that were in blind spots or where
panels meet with crevasses as thin as paper. Most of these in door
bottoms, frame to floor meetings are hidden.
My solution; I used a Hudson Sprayer and applied the phosphoric to the
whole van, I really drenched the van with the solution. (Van completely
gutted to the bare body structure).
The phosphoric Acid will attack your concrete driveway so you need a
quality construction film drop cloth under the van to protect your
driveway.
In areas that had drain holes, door bottoms, frame rails, bumper
structure, I placed cans, buckets etc to catch the drained fluid and
reloaded my sprayer with it.
After this process I neutralized everything with baking soda mixed with
water after I let everything dry for a few days.

Stan Wilder

On Sat, 29 Mar 2003 09:58:22 EST John Carpenter <Trvlr2001@AOL.COM>
writes:
> Hi All,
> Of course the wise need no words; They already have it pretty much
> figured
> out!
> I`m doing a complete, inside out paint job, and, I've got my
> cabinets out,
> and the rust in the side panel, just behind the drivers door, in my
> 85 is
> worse than I had thought!

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