Go get a good Epoxy glue and glue the hall sensor to the distributor.
I've done this on 4 Vanagon and not one has ever come back.
This ends up being stronger than new.
                                                   Eric

Marla Stelk wrote:

> Hi Sidney - I would love to hear what you find out about this - I've been a
> little lost on this subject as well.  My hall sender is loose where it goes
> into the distributor, but I believe the wires are still in good shape.  But
> I've always wanted to test the Hall sensor anyway, because I've had a hunch
> that it might be responsible for some idle problems in my van.  I've got a
> multimeter, too - not sure how it translates to a voltmeter or exactly how
> to read it.   A lot of times, the guys on the list will just respond to the
> sender directly, so the list doesn't get the benefit of their knowledge.
> Anyway, I'd greatly appreciate if you'd share your findings with me.  Sounds
> like we have some similar issues with our vans.
>
> Thanks!
> Marla
> '87 Westy GL Vana Morrison
>
>     From: Sidney White <Jeanon@AOL.COM>
> Reply-To: Jeanon@AOL.COM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Hall Sensor TEst 2.1L
> Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 19:28:11 EDT
>
> On Digifant the Bentley test #  28.43 refers to using a US1115 voltmeter(
> not
> a multimeter). The test says if LED flickers, hall sender is OK. What is a
> US1115 Voltmeter and what can be used instead. I used a multimeter but dont
> know what results I should get. I already put in a used replacement hall
> sender and am testing it to be sure it is good, if it is bad then I need a
> ECU as the test #28.44 failed and I do not get 4.5volts, I get zero volts-
> on
> the other hand maybe I won't if the hall sender is bad. Sooo, that is why I
> need to insure hall sender is good, ECU's might be expensive and dont want
> to
> buy one unnecessarily.
>
> What say you?
>
> Sidney in New Orleans
>
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