Mike
If you just want to remove the brake drum and the shoes, springs etc. inside the drum you do not have to remove the "big" nuts.  Take off the road wheels and the two little 11mm bolts on the brake drum and it will come off.  The drum may be stuck but a few smacks with hammer should loosen it.  I know this to be true because I took mine apart on Sunday.
Good Luck
George
'85 Westfalia

>>Does anybody have any tips on removing the big nut on the rear axle of a
>>Vanagon?  I'm trying to replace the rear brake shoes, and the big nut won't
>>come off so that I can get at the brakes themselves.