Me too!  Good fer ya!

I noticed the post about pulling the cabinets to do the anti-rust
thing.  I am actually thinking of doing this but I do not want make it
a HUGE make-work project!  Obviously the fridge must come out...what
about all the connections and tubing for the sink/water tank and
everything else.  Any traps I should know about?  My van is now
starting to rust in the seams so maybe it is too late.  Advise, please
and thanks?

On Sunday, May 25, 2003, at 05:59  PM, Brent Christensen wrote:

> Thanks Bruce!   I figured out that I could remove it with a good solid
> (yet gentle) YANK out the side door.   ;-)
>
> -Brent
>
>
>> From: Bruce Ralphs <bar@islandnet.com>
>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>> CC: Brent Christensen <sbsyncro@HOTMAIL.COM>
>> Subject: Re: Removing the floor in a late model Westy
>> Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 17:58:32 -0700
>>
>> Hi brent,
>> Just pulled all of the flooring and the rear seat out of my 85 Westy
>> as the rear heater core spewed almost all my coolant into the van
>> last week.  I do have the middle rails for seating so my flooring is
>> in three sections.  The front had the white adhesive run down one of
>> the ribs near the front that pulled up easily with some force.  The
>> middle was held in by the rail flanges and the rear of course has the
>> seat on it and the flange from the rear rail.  The floor extended
>> under the seat by about .5 inch as it does under the cabinets.  Mine
>> was held under that by staples about every two inches.  I simply
>> lifted the boards up from the sliding door opening and that overcame
>> the staples under the edge of the cabinets.  Now all my cabinets and
>> flooring are dry!
>>
>> cheers, Bruce
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, May 25, 2003, at 03:03  PM, Brent Christensen wrote:
>>
>>> I'm trying to pull out my flooring in order to do some
>>> sound-proofing and install a jump seat.  I notice that the front
>>> (sliding door) edge is held in place with a "tack strip" much like
>>> carpeting, and there are a few spots of white "glue" that seems to
>>> remain tacky and flexible enough to gently pry the floor loose.  I
>>> am stuck, however, on the rear (stove/cabinet) edge.  I do not want
>>> to force it, since I am trying not to crack the floor board; does
>>> anyone know how far under the stove/sink cabinet that the flooring
>>> is inserted?  Is it more or less flush with the edge?  Is it affixed
>>> to something like the tack strip on the leading edge?
>>>
>>> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> -BRent
>>>
>>>
>>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE*
> http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
>
>
>