Shawn wrote:
>Sounds like something I should look into. I assume the steel line is flexible
>enough to make the necessary bends?

Yeah, steel brake tubing bends easy enough by hand as long as you
don't bend too tight and kink it. No need for tight bends here...

>  Did you also continue the steel line
>across the engine where there are currently rubber lines wrapped in
>plastic sleeves?

Errr, welll.... actually, I brought both mine into the engine compartment
through an elongated hole at the front right corner of the engine
compartment.... cuz that's where the fuel connections to the subaru
engine are.

>  Did you have to flare or somehow "barb" the ends of the
>steel to keep the rubber held on?

It's a good idea to bead the end of the tubing on the high pressure
line. I didn't bother doing the return line.
Wrap a piece of small diameter steel wire (20 GA?) around
the circumference of the tube. Solder it on with a propane torch.
Use a file, sandpaper, whatever, to smooth up the bead and you're
ready to go. Here's an example of the basic technique on some
copper pipe. These beads are too large. It just takes a a little bit
to keep it from sliding.

http://www.weirdstuffwemake.com/automotive/vanagon/suburvan/coolingSystem/hoseBead01.jpg

>  I noticed the stupid plastic line does not
>do this - it wouldn't have come loose otherwise...

I find a great many stupid things about the stock plastic fuel setup.
It gave me the creeps. That's why I fixed mine *before* it torched the van.

Oh yeah, it took about 5' of steel tubing on the HP side and 7' on the
return side to do mine. But it would probably be a little different to
reach the stock locations in the engine compartment. Good auto parts
store should stock steel brake line up to 6' or so. My FLAPS ordered
my a couple 10 footers.

Steve
'86 Westy