Eric,
  nope he'll look for a wasser boxer

At 01:45 PM 5/30/2003 -0400, Eric Zeno wrote:
>Stan,
>            It looks to me as if your are getting out of the
>Vanagon busness.    Does this mean once you sell all
>your parts you will no longer be here on the list server?
>
>                                                                       Eric
>
>
>
>Stan Wilder wrote:
>
> > Fan motor .................. With Resistor $15.00
> > http://www.williamwareagency.com/forsale/firesale0.htm
> > If you don't like the price ............. demand a better price!
> > You might be surprised.
> > More stuff coming tonight and tomorrow, book mark the page.
> >
> > Stan Wilder
> >
> > On Mon, 12 May 2003 19:55:38 -0700 Joel Cort <joel_cort@YAHOO.COM>
> > writes:
> > > Hi Shannon and other Listees
> > >
> > > I read you problem and have done this job before. It sure sounds
> > > like you need a new fan motor. You can pick one up at the Bus Depot,
> > > Vanagain or VolksCafe for about $100 + shipping. That is the easy
> > > part, now you have to install the new mortor..... read on.
> > >
> > > David Beierl -- dbeierl@attglobal.net has been a great resource and
> > > wealth
> > > of information on how to do this for me. He even shipped out FedEx
> > > those
> > > darn 11 clips to me.
> > >
> > > This is a fairly easy job as far as Vanagons are concerned but be
> > > ready to spend the weekend.
> > >
> > > Before you get started with this project you may also want to order
> > > those darn 11 clamps at your VW dealer. They are VW Part number 321
> > > 819 059 and you will need them to reseal the heater unit.  Having
> > > the Bentley guide will also be helpful.
> > >
> > > Below are some basic instructions for doing the job:
> > >
> > >    Disconnect the battery: You will be working without the dash and
> > > with exposed  hot  terminals so it is best to disconnect the ground
> > > connection.  To do this move the passenger seat forward, remove the
> > > plate under the rear of the seat protecting the battery and loosed
> > > the ground connection.  Pull the ground wire off the terminal and
> > > fasten it so that it does not flip back and touch the battery
> > > terminal again.
> > >    Instrument cluster removal: Pull the instrument panel off and
> > > remove all the wiring. There are 4 Phillips #2 screws holding the
> > > plastic tab of the instrument cluster. Be careful, these tabs can
> > > get brittle with age. They will break and shatter.  Wiggle you hand
> > > behind the speedometer and unclip the spedo cable.  Just squeeze the
> > > connector and it will come out. Next pull out the switches by
> > > pressing the tabs to release them from the cluster.  The cluster
> > > should lift out and remove the big wire connector plug. This will
> > > provide you room to get under the dash board. Put the cluster in a
> > > safe place that you will not sit or lay other components on.
> > >    Vent lever removal: Release all the vent levers. If you pull on
> > > the blue and red rubber knobs they will work off the lever. You will
> > > be able to see the mounting nut after the instrument panel is
> > > removed. You may have to remove the front and rear heater fan
> > > switches as well. Also remove any auxiliary wiring on the dash that
> > > you may have added on.
> > >    Radio: Remove the radio   you are on your own here
> > >    Remove the Glove box:   press the retaining tabs and lower the
> > > box to the floor board. Slide it off its pivot.  Be careful not to
> > > press the retaining tabs to much or too hard, they could be brittle
> > > and break.
> > >     Syncro dash plate: (Applies to SYNCRO Model) Remove the Syncro
> > > dash plate and Differential lock switch(es).
> > >     Steering column: Remove the two bolts holding the steering
> > > column to the dash frame. These are safety bolts without a head
> > > because it is meant to snap off when the bolts are torque at the
> > > factory. I used a pair of vise grips and was able to turn these
> > > bolts loose. I replaced them with normal bolts. I think they are a
> > > thread of 8x1.25 mm and 25 cm long.  The steering column will drop
> > > to the driver s seat and that is ok and out of the way.
> > >    Dashboard attachment: Unbolt the dashboard
> > > a.  6 or 8 #3 Philips head below the windshield
> > > b.  4 big bolts along the door jams.  You will need to be able to
> > > open the doors wide enough to get your screwdriver/bolt driver in
> > > there
> > >
> > > 9)   Dash removal: Ok the Dash should be loose and ready to pull
> > > off.
> > > a. Lift it up slowly and check what else is still wired and
> > > connected, like the cig lighter or AC switches, You will have to
> > > unplug all.
> > > b. I did it by myself but with an extra person it sure is easier to
> > > lift and pull the dash out one side or the other.
> > >
> > > 10)  Review the heater unit: With the dash out you can now see the
> > > heater unit shell.
> > >
> > > a.  Fastening clips: Check to see if there are black metallic
> > > clips (11 of them) snapping the upper half of this heater together.
> > > This
> > > is an indication that your heater has been pull out and separated
> > > once
> > > before for service.  If there are no clips then this is the first
> > > time this heater
> > > unit is being serviced.  There is a smooth factory mold gluing the
> > > upper
> > > and lower half of the heater unit sealed from the factory.  You will
> > > have to
> > > run a blade or knife along this edge to separate the two halves.
> > > Make sure
> > > that you order the 11 clips available only at the VW dealers. It
> > > will be tough
> > > on a Sunday afternoon to find these at NAPA.  They cost about $2 or
> > > so.
> > > VW part number 321 819 059
> > >
> > > b. Heater unit support: Ok the heater unit is held in place by 4
> > > long Philips
> > > screws, 2 inside the cabin and 2 from outside by the headlights.
> > > You will have to remove the front upper grill to get to these.
> > > Once
> > > you remove the grill you will see against the firewall just the
> > > Phillips
> > > head holding a felt or soft washer.  These should be the upper
> > > supporting
> > > screws for the heater unit. They may be rusted to where you cannot
> > > get
> > > your screwdriver into it. Just work it and don t strip it or rush
> > > this part.  On
> > > the inside the screws should be easier.  You may need a long
> > > Phillips #3
> > > screwdriver.
> > > David Beierl adds: The big M6 screws holding the heater box
> > > in are Phillips #3 and not #2, and if you use a #2 driver
> > > you're gonna most likely mess them up.  Not too terrible
> > > on the exposed ones, but a big problem with the buried
> > > ones on the heater box.  What I've actually done is use
> > > the longest #3 I could get, and clamp one of the special
> > > Vise-grips made for hex nuts on the plastic handle to
> > > turn it with, then lean into the end with as much body
> > > weight as I can manage to keep the driver from coming out.
> > > With that combination I could get enough force in there to
> > > either remove the screw or twist the head off -- not as good
> > > obviously but far better than buggering the head of the screw.
> > >
> > > c. Coolant hose removal: You will also need to remove the coolant
> > > hoses
> > > coming up from the housing.  Be neat and try to capture any coolant
> > > drips before
> > > they get to the rug.  I used lots of newspaper rags and paper
> > > towels.  Not too much
> > > came out when I did this, but the heater core is full of coolant so
> > > when you take the
> > > actual heater unit out be aware that some coolant may drip. I put a
> > > couple of corks
> > > in the pipes to keep them as sealed as I could.
> > >
> > > 11)   Removal out of the van: Ok the disassembly is complete you are
> > > ready to take the heater unit out of the van for the service.  Again
> > > plug the coolant pipes and hoses to not loose too much coolant on
> > > the front rug in the van.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > 12)    Servicing the Heater Unit:
> > > a.  Separate the two halves: with the heater unit in your work
> > > area (or garage floor) you can now separate the shells and get to
> > > the fan motor.  See the seam between the two shells and try to run a
> > > knife or a blade along that seam.  Be patient and work it slowly to
> > > not damage anything internal and yourself. Refer to the Bentley
> > > instructions if need be. Again make sure that you have the VW
> > > engineered clips to buckle these two halves once you are ready to re
> > > install.
> > >
> > > b. Replacing the Heater Fan:  With the two halves split you can now
> > > service the fan motor.  I recall that it easily comes out.  You will
> > > probably have to remove the squirrel cages from you old motor and
> > > insert them on the new motor.  It may take a very small Allen wrench
> > > for that  don t know? Forgot? Mark the orientation of all the parts
> > > to fit back in place properly and in the right direction. Refit the
> > > new fan motor and test it out with a 12-volt source.  Make sure it
> > > works and spins in the correct direction.
> > >
> > > c. Wiring the Heater Fan:  The wires are connected/soldered to the
> > > big green resistor. This is what provides the 3 fan speeds. You will
> > > also note the three or four wires coming from the switch to the big
> > > resistor.  Do you soldering tricks and remember where the yellow,
> > > brown, black wires go.  If the big green resistor is cracked or
> > > blackened it may need to be replaced as well. Test it out on all
> > > three speeds.
> > >
> > > d. Heater core servicing:  You may choose to service other
> > > components of the heater unit such as the heater radiator core of
> > > the vent flaps.  You can check the heater core for any leakage,
> > > which you could have smelled as sweet maple syrup prior to taking
> > > this job on. There should be signs of corrosion if the core is
> > > leaking. You can remove the heater core and flush it out or look for
> > > any signs of leaks.  In which case it would be very very wise to
> > > change the heater core as well since you have it all out and can do
> > > it right. List vendors sell this unit for around $100.
> > >
> > > e. Vent Flaps Servicing:  While you are at it, check the foam seals
> > > around all the flaps. These are usually burned out after 10 + years
> > > in service, and may need to be replaced.  I made all the replacement
> > > seal from foam pieces that I had laying around from old packaging.
> > > Go to a hardware store and check out the foam material in the
> > > heating and air conditioning section. They usually will have some
> > > material that will work.  You cannot get this from VW so you have to
> > > custom make this.  The important flaps to check are the lower flaps.
> > >  This seal is what stops the outside from coming into the cab and
> > > warming up the Van in the summer time.
> > >
> > > 13)   Reinstallation:  OK you are done. I'm done, I can t think of
> > > anything else at the moment. Refit the heater flaps, the heater
> > > core, the fan motor and cage, the resistor and reassemble the two
> > > halves using the 11 clips. Refit the heater unit in the van, refit
> > > the coolant hoses on the heater core. Check the vent cabling to
> > > ensure that all works well inside the box. Refit and remount
> > > everything in reverse order and you should be golden.
> > >
> > > 14)    Fill the coolant and bleed the circuit as described on the
> > > list or in Bentley. Flush the air out and you are set.
> > >
> > > Hope this helps,
> > >
> > > Joel Cort Joel.cort@usa.xerox.com or Joel_Cort@yahoo
> > > 89 Syncro Westy
> > > Rochester NY.
> > >
> > > LiMBO representative for the Western New York region.
> > >
> > >
> > > Shannon Mitchell <vze4rq5j@VERIZON.NET> wrote:
> > > My front heater fan is going on the fritz... loud screeching noise
> > > and it is driving me crazy... Where is this fan? and how hard is it
> > > to change?
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance
> > > Shannon
> > > 91 Vanagon
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
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