I've been using a $10.00 Wal Mart boat bilge pump from their sporting
goods section for eight years ........ always worked good for me.

Stan Wilder

On Wed, 11 Jun 2003 11:08:09 -0500 Leon Roose <LeonRoose@MEGSINET.NET>
writes:
> I've replaced my failing pump with one from JC Whitney a number of
> years
> ago.  It fit right in with no hose connection problems and has
> worked well
> since. Check their online catalogue
> (http://www.jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=14897&BQ=jcw2) if you
> are
> interested.
>
> Leon
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Beierl" <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 3:33 PM
> Subject: Re: Facet's water pump
>
>
> > At 03:16 PM 6/10/2003, Jay Roth wrote:
> > >Anyone know where the Westy's water pump (for the faucet) is? In
> Bentley,
> it
> > >appears to be in the lower cabinet below the sink, but in my '87
> the
> tubing
> > >runs behind the Dometic.
> >
> > Hah, thought this was the Atomic-Four list -- Facet make an
> electric fuel
> > pump for it...
> >
> > Anyway, it's inside the water tank; wires come through the top of
> the
> > tank.  There's either a floating connector or a terminal strip
> attached to
> > the wall of the "secret" compartment just fwd of the tank, where
> the
> 110vac
> > stuff is -- make sure you're getting 12v between those terminals
> when
> > faucet switch is on.  If so, pump no doubt died.  The original was
> made by
> > Coleman in Germany and the dealer price ten years ago was $125 --
> the
> > functional equivalent is available from RV/camping suppliers for
> $20 or
> > less I believe.  Size of a couple 35-mm film cans on end.  A $12
> > minimum-size submersible bilge pump will work about as well but
> you'll
> have
> > to adapt the hose size; it's meant to pump lots more water but
> the
> > restricted outlet will limit it nicely.
> >
> > Either type will pump water if hooked up backwards, but not very
> well --
> > they're centrifugal pumps.  Original no doubt has a nice German
> brown wire
> > for ground....  Either type will freeze and burst the pump chamber
> if you
> > let the tank freeze.
> >
> > If you have the float-type water-level sender, long wand sticking
> down
> into
> > the tank, BEWARE -- they are extraordinarily fragile and quite
> > expensive.  It is by no means excessive to remove the sender from
> the tank
> > when performing any maintenance at all, including washing out the
> tank.  A
> > slight bend with no visible external effect can pull the internal
> circuit
> > apart due to thoughtless design.  Also, a single drop of water
> inside may
> > ruin the sender -- examine the seals at top closely and reinforce
> them  to
> > an unreasonable degree to prevent this.  Water wicking along the
> wires
> will
> > kill you.  Busted ones I may be able to fix for somewhat less than
> a new
> one.
> >
> >
> > If you have the sensor terminals in the tank wall, scrub them
> with
> > ScotchBrite or such whenever you're near them.  Depending on how
> soft your
> > water is, adding half a teaspoon or so of salt to a tankful may
> make the
> > lights more reliable.
> >
> > david
> >
> >
> >
> > >Love, Light & Laughter,
> > >Jay
> >
> > --
> > David Beierl - Providence RI USA --
> http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/
> > '84 Westy "Dutiful Passage"
> > '85 GL "Poor Relation"
> >
>
>

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