Yeah, when I got my Westy, the digital clock didn't work.
A trace on the flexible circuit board was broken and I
successfully repaired it.

Tips:
Instead of trying to jumper directly across a break in a
trace, it may be better to follow the trace around a ways
and see if you can find a place where the copper trace
is wider or thicker than at the break. Solder your jumper
wire there. When I fixed my clock, I soldered to the trace
right at the power connector end where the trace is fat,
and at one of the connectors for the clock itself at the
other end. Much safer than trying to solder where the
trace is very thin...

*Carefully* scrape the copper clean with an exacto knife.

Make sure to tin the jumper wire well before you make the
solder joint.

Use a very hot fine tipped soldering iron and work FAST.

If you take too long, you will melt the plastic. If you have
trouble and don't get a good joint in just a second or 2,
stop and let the parts cool thoroughly and try again.

Make sure to secure your jumper wire to the circuit board
with a few dabs of glue so it can't vibrate loose.
Regular silicone sealant contains acetic acid, which
corrodes copper. Don't use it on the circuit board.

That's all I can think of...
Oh yeah, good luck!

Here's a brief bit I wrote about fixing the clock, complete
with photo of a solder joint on the plastic board...
http://www.weirdstuffwemake.com/automotive/vanagon/HeyMyClockWorks/

Steve
EJ22 -> '86 Westy "Escape Pod"

------------------

At 03:52 PM 6/14/2003, you wrote:
>Anyone successfully repaired the foil on the backside of the instrument
>cluster?  I *found* the reason for no winky.  Trace is torn across the
>bottom. Hence no winky when the turn signals are on. The electrons are
>having a tough time jumping the gap.
>
>I'm wide-open for suggestions!
>
>TIA.
>
>Jim