1) had the bore alignment checked on the wbx case -
everything is within .0005" of nominal (but we are
talking about rods?)
2)
3)
4) "little spin"... now, i'm not a strong man... not
sure how hard a little spin is :-)
5) my rods definitely seem to drop faster than that,
but i'll double check (not enough oil? who knows...)

And yes, i do have newly reconditioned rods and crank
and they do seem to measure quite consistently (at
least as consistently as i can manage).  I have been
able to procure a bonafide micrometer in the right
sizes to check the journals...

Thanks for the tips - unfortunately, in this case at
least, i am a little (lot) more comfortable with the
numbers than little spins and hard clunks.  They will
be a good reality check, though.

-Damon

--- Stan Wilder <wilden1@JUNO.COM> wrote:
> Deciding a go or no go on the parts you are
> describing is more elemental
> that.
> #1) Case bore is of first priority.
> #2) Toque the case up with the main bearings and
> crankshaft in it.
> #3) The bearings should be oiled with about 40 wt
> oil.
> #4) Give the crank (without the cam in the engine) a
> little spin from
> either end and you should have about 5 to 7
> revolutions. (no flywheel)
> #5) Install a rod with the bearing, again with 40wt
> oil, torque the rod
> properly. It should slowly drop from top of your
> case cylinder opening to
> the bottom evidencing some minor resistance. It will
> drop in about 1-2
> seconds if it's a fit. If you get a resounding
> clunk, its a no go.
> You are absolutely right in taking the care to mic
> everything before hand
> but unless you have newly reconditioned rods and a
> freshly ground crank
> and those parts consistently have exactly the same
> readings from three
> points 120 degrees offset then you are dealing with
> the unknown.

=====
'84 Westy (Sparky)
'65 Kharma Ghia (Dharma)

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