forgot to mention, that I've wondered, why you couldn't just replace the
factory hose clamp on this housing for the hose that travels upward, with a
screw tightened hose clamp, and then loose this clamp to bleed the
housing... any reason, why that wouldn't work???

>From: Mark Dorm <mark_hb@HOTMAIL.COM>

>
>is it becuase you can't open this valve... also, have you burped the
>system... its best to check the reserve tank several times after driving
>even one block at a time after bleeding the system... air can still be
>trapped somewhere, and it'll circulate through the system and belch out
>into
>your reserve tank... then you have to open you tank just enough to let this
>air come out... caution is, if you were to leave you cap open too long, the
>water can start boiling... so you're just opening enough to 'bleed' this
>resevoir, but you're not actually removing the cap, or dwelling on it too
>long.. Stop the engine if you're not sure.. and let it cool down again, and
>then you can later ascertain if you need add more water..
>
>>From: Marla Stelk <mjstelk@HOTMAIL.COM>
>>Reply-To: Marla Stelk <mjstelk@HOTMAIL.COM>
>>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>>Subject: Q Re: bleeding thermostat
>>Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 14:42:24 -0400
>>
>>Hi volks,
>>
>>I replaced my oil cooler seal and some cooling hoses the other day so I
>>had
>>to top off my antifreeze level.  I bled the van - worked fine for the rear
>>heater bleeder and the front radiator bleeder, but couldn't get any
>>antifreeze to bleed through the thermostat bleeder....any ideas?  It runs
>>fine on the highway, but its heating up fast in stop and go traffic - the
>>fans are coming on so they're fine.  Any help would be appreciated -
>>thanks
>>in advance!
>>
>>Peace,
>>Marla
>>'87 Westy GL "Vana Morrison"
>>
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