Blake wrote:

>Conclusion??????
>I conclude that the switch is faulty and that when there is a substantial
>voltage applied (ie, 12V), the current actually flows.  When there is not
>enough voltage applied (ie, what my voltmeter applies), the current does
>not flow.

This is possible, especially with modern ohmmeters that deliberately use a
very low voltage to avoid setting diode/transistor junctions into
conductive state.  However there is a theoretical difficulty, depending
somewhat on what resistance your meter can read before it over-ranges
(probably either two or twenty megohms if it's a digital).  Say more about
your meter?  Analog? Digital?  How many batteries of what
voltage?  Autoranging?  Were you using an ohms range or "Continuity
check?"  I don't have your posts, had mail problems.

>My fix: replace the switch in the tranny.
>
>Anyone agree with these conclusions?????  I'm still a bit new at this
>trouble shooting game.  Should I order the switch?

First measure the  resistance btw the *wires* when they're plugged in to
the switch.  Suggest going from the fuse (in the little black connector box
-- be sure you get the right end!) and ground.  Otherwise pierce the wires
with a needle as far from the switch as practical to avoid moving the
connection and maybe getting a false negative.

If they're separate wires with unshielded connectors they can easily short
together -- even if they *are* plugged onto and not between the lugs on the
switch.  If that's it a shim of some sort to separate them and some RTV to
hold everything together should do.

david

--
David Beierl - Providence RI USA -- http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/
'84 Westy "Dutiful Passage"
'85 GL "Poor Relation"