Is there a part number or measurements for the copper crush gaskets?  Can I
get them at my FLAPS?  My bus depot order should be in today, and was planning
on changing the oil tonight.

Thanks,
David / NJ
85 Wolfsburg Westy
> Don,
>
> Do yourself a favor, change the oil now, in the beginning, and get it
> right the first time!! Now what do I mean by that??
>
> Well, related to oil, and the hydraulic valve lifters, the Vanagon has a
> "Syndrome". One day you are going to start the engine and you are going
> to hear this awful clattering, clacking sound that seemed to just
> suddenly start. It is terrifying to the first time owner because the
> first thing you think of is "Oh no, I have a rod knocking and my engine
> is going to fail" or something similarly expensive to fix. It is
> inevitable.
>
> Well, relax, it is only "The Vanagon Lifter Syndrome". It just occurs at
> random, there is no permanent fix but it can be minimized.
>
> What I am about to explain here is from my own experience and from the
> accumulated operating experience of the many members of the Vanagon
> List. Much is anecdotal, but it repeats itself over and over and over,
> so even though some people have had variations in the experience, there

> is still a core of truth in it. So here goes.
>
> The lifters in the WBX engine tend to leak down their oil when  the
> valve train has pressure exerted on the system in a certain way when the
> engine is shut down. Next time you start, the engine clatters like crazy
> until it has run a while and the lifters have pumped back up. It is
> related to having the right viscosity oil and an oil filter which has
> the correct internal relief valve spring pressure.
>
> To reduce the occurrence of the syndrome, you need a bottle of Marvels
> Mystery Oil (MMO), a Mahle or Mann Oil filter (I prefer the Mahle - get
> Mahle or Mann  from our list vendors), and 20W50 wt Dino oil, or 15W50
> Mobil 1 Synthetic. You also need to change oil on schedule religiously.
> I change mine at 3000 miles.
>
> The Mann or Mahle filters have the correct relief valve spring pressure.
> With the engine off, the higher spring pressure holds the oil in the oil
> galleries of the engine longer and thus keeps the lifters pumped longer.

> However, even they will leak down  eventually, if the engine is not run.
> How long that is, nobody knows, but an engine should be run and warmed
> thoroughly  at least once a week to ensure everything keeps a coat of
> oil on it for protection if for no other reason.
>
> Oils - dinosaur oil in the 20W50 Wt or synthetics like Mobil 1 15W50 Wt
> variety seems to work best for WBX. This  seems to be the cumulative
> experience of The List. Certainly for me. The exceptions to that come
> from our esteemed membership living in colder climates, and is usually
> related to winter operations in those colder climates. When the outside
> temperature is Zero or below, you certainly want to consider another
> weight oil. However, I will say this, engines have an operating
> temperature range, summer or winter, and it is the effects of oils at
> startup in cold conditions that you want to consider. Once the engine is
> warm it's needs the protection of the right oil for the clearances

> involved regardless of outside temperatures. So an oil pre-heater may be
> more in order than a change to a lower viscosity oil. As for me, until
> recently I have always run the 20W50wt Dino oil year round. With 40,000
> miles now on a completely overhauled engine, I recently switched to
> Mobil 1 15W50 Synthetic. My observation is that my oil consumption had
> dropped and the engine seems to run a bit cooler in this Southern summer
> heat.
>
> Marvel Mystery Oil: (the additive) This is truly Marvelous (pun
> intended) stuff. It has been around a long time, and is a must for the
> Vanagon owner. It is a cleaner, and is a good fuel additive to keep the
> fuel system and injectors free of any build ups and when added to the
> oil helps keep the lifters spotlessly clean and free of any buildups or
> debris that could cause those little precision machined components in
> the lifters to stick or plug up  and contribute to  the lifter syndrome.
> MMO added to the oil  200-300 miles in advance of an oil change helps

> give the oil system a good cleaning.
>
> As far as Marvels is concerned, there is also Marvels Mystery Oil that
> is a penetrating oil. I keep a bottle of that in my vehicle in my tool
> kit. I learned about it years ago from some old time aircraft mechanics
> that swore by it. Now I do to. When something is stuck, a screw, a nut,
> or what have you, an overnight  soak in Marvels Penetrating oil will
> nearly always loosen it up when nothing else will.
>
> You might want to consider changing your own oil in the future. With the
> proper tools, it takes 15 minutes. If you are using a Mahle filter, the
> end is shaped like a big nut. Walmart sells a filter tool wrench that is
> like a humongous socket that fits right on that filter nut shape. The
> Walmart tool takes a 3/8" drive. That, plus a flat pan that looks like a
> big plastic jug that has been flattened a bit on the side (Walmart, also
> in the oil section) makes oil changing a snap. That drain pan has two

> holes with plugs on the upper side for the oil to drain into. No more
> having to fish the filter or the drain plug out of the oil drain pan.
> When the oil is drained, put the plugs in, haul it to the nearest oil
> dump and discharge from the container. Simple as that.  To change our
> own oil or for any one else to do it, you MUST use copper crush gaskets
> under the head of the drain plug. If you don't, or the Quickie Oil
> Change folk don't (and most don't because they don't have the right size
> - Vanagons are so odd and non-standard) trying to tighten the plug to
> prevent leakage will ultimately strip the threads out of the engine
> case. THAT is a very severe PITA to fix and get right. Get the gaskets
> from the list vendors - when you order your filters.
>
> BTW, when you buy  filters, I suggest you get at least 4 at a time. Oil
> changes are an ongoing thing, and they will always be needed, and on
> hand when you need them.
>
> Enjoy your new vehicle!!
>
> Regards,
>
> John Rodgers
> 88 GL Driver
>
>

> Don Spence wrote:
>
> >As you can probably tell I'm a new owner with lots of newby questions....
> >so, How often should you change the oil in the 1.9 wbx?
> >
> >Seems also that everyone lists there car "collection" as part of the
> >signature line so... here's my list.
> >
> >65 Jaguar 3.8 'S' Type  (for sale)
> >67 Triumph TR4A
> >72 Triumph TR-6
> >83 Vanagon-L Westphalia
> >84 Peugeot 505 STI
> >99 Plymouth Grand Voyager
> >
> >
> >