On Monday 25 Aug 2003 15:15, Tracy Bonin wrote:

> Good Morning everyone, well this week isn't starting off so good, this
> morning went to start the bus and no start. The battery is ok, there is
> power. It won't crank the engine. I realize that means that it's either
> the starter, the solinoid, or the ignition switch. I was hoping that
> someone might know of any tell signs as to which one it could be. I
> don't think that it's the ignition switch, because I had that replaced
> about a year and a half ago, and I know that alot of my power options
> (ie: lights, etc) weren't working properly when it went. I know with
> some cars the solinoid will click if it's ok, but I couldn't be at the
> front and the back of the bus to hear it while trying to start.........

I've had this problem over the weekend, only with an refurbished starter
and solenoid. I've spent the last 18 months intermittently knocking the
starter with a hammer - via a broomstick stuck through the wheel arch and
got fed up with it! The damn thing still won't start.

1       The earth connection is OK - a voltmeter from the battery to the body of
the starter reads 14.5v.
2       The solenoid clicks happily, sometimes manages to crank the engine,
somtimes doesn't.
3       A direct line from the battery (i.e. starter feed) to the solenoid
terminal will start the engine (with the ignition switched on).

My solution for this week (until I can come up with something more
permanent): A link from the alternator feed to the solenoid via a flasher
switch, which I've left sticking out of the engine compartment. If the
engine starts from the ignition switch all's well and good. If not, I
leave the ignition switched on, go round to the back of the bus and flick
the temporary one to start the engine. If it won't start without a little
extra gas, I just have to open the engine compartment, flick the switch
and give gas from under there.

I have no other electrical problems... so: could this be resolved by using
the original feed from the ignition key to actuate a relay, which would -
in turn - crank the engine via a secondary circuit like the temporary one
I've set up? I don't fancy changing the ignition switch just for the sake
of reduced power to one circuit. (How difficult is this to do,
incidentally - in case I have no other option?)
--
Tim
PGP Key ID: 525e6a47
Available from http://pgp.mit.edu