Rich left out an important detail:

The coolant won't reach the radiator and radiator bleed valve until the
t-stat opens.  So you should not try to open the radiator bleed valve
until the t-stat opens.  I usually run the van at 2000 rpm in the driveway
until the radiator fan comes on once which is a sure sign that t-stat has
opened and coolant is reaching the radiator, usually takes about 10-15
minutes at 2000 rpm in the driveway to open the t-stat and reach normal
operating temperature.

Andrew Fox

> Follow a basic bleed procedure: cold engine, remove the coolant tank cap,
> start engine, turn the valve on the thermostat housing to the left, rev the
> engine up to about 2K and hold it there (might want an assistant for this
> part), open the bleeder valve on the radiator (you can remove it to get lots
> of air out faster but be ready to put it back on).
>
> If you don't have anything coming out of the radiator bleeder then you have
> a blockage.
>
> Hotch
> Richard Hotchkiss
> http://www.hotstrings-inc.com
>
>
> > Date:    Wed, 27 Aug 2003 16:53:01 -0400
> > From:    John Meeks <jmeeks@GASLIGHTMEDIA.COM>
> > Subject: Re: 91 GL Running hot still...what next?
> >
> > Dan,
> > Stop!! Don't prise the thermo bleed cap. On your model it's really a valve
> > that will pass air into the bleed ring that runs around the top of the
> > engine compartment. Try parking on a steep hil or jacking up the rear. Run
> > it up to temp, then open that valve. If air is your problem you should begin
> > to see bubbles gurgling around in the bleed ring.
> > Hope this helps,
> > Regards,
> > John Meeks
> > Top of Lower Michigan
> > 91 Westfalia MultiVan
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM]On Behalf
> > Of Dan Haydon
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2003 1:27 PM
> > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > Subject: 91 GL Running hot still...what next?
> >
> >
> > Hi group,
> >
> > At first I thought that my fan switch was not working and that
> > was why I was heating up past the standard level, but then I
> > noticed that the coolant is not reaching the radiator. I
> > replaced the thermostat and it's still not passing through
> > (turns out the old thermo was OK too).
> >
> > Both the metal pass tube from the thermostat and the bypass
> > tube are hot, but the hose from the radiator into the
> > thermostat is cool and is passing little or no coolant ( I can
> > squeeze it until both sides touch). Is this most likely air in
> > the lines or blockage of the radiator?
> >
> > I cracked the radiator bleed screw as the motor heated up to
> > confirm and not so much as a whisper came from it. The bleed
> > screw on the thermo housing...I twisted the plastic cap on the
> > top and it seemed threaded. Do I need to prise that off to get
> > to the bleed screw underneath or is that the bleed screw?
> >
> > Or how about a garden hose flush, would that do anything?
> >
> > Thanks a bunch for the continuing support on this issue!
> >
> > Hosed in Colorado,
> > Dan Haydon
>