Doktor Tim wrote:
>  From a cold start let it idle for 30 seconds, then twist off the cap and
> see if there is any pressure. There will not be any pressure from heat
> build up so any pressure will verify combustion leakage pumping pressure
> into the coolant. As this progresses it starts pumping coolant past the cap
> into the overflow tank and overflowing and of course, overheating. By this
> time you should see air bubbles and/or froth in the pressure tank.

Another dead give-away with diesels is soot floating in the coolant.
Been there, seen that.

> Also, if you have the 12mm torque to yield bolts, they
> don't give the maximum length of the stretched bolt for reuse, so you must
> replace them with new or risk failure.
>
> So I have these 11 mm bolts that are just perfect for making pairs of
> alinement pins for reinstalling the gasket and head which you simply must
> have or you WILL bugger the gasket and spray sealant film trying to get a
> bolt started. Instant re-failure is not the way to finish this job.

I made a similar set of alignment pins from a pair of used (and thus
useless) of 12mm torque-to-yield bolts.  I cut the heads off with an
angle grinder, then cut slots across the tops.  Once the head is on and
the bolts started, you can unscrew the alignment pins with a screwdriver
and remove with a magnet.  If you're not in a do-it-yourself mood, you
can get a ready-made set of pins (as well as all the other tools you'll
need) from http://www.vwdieselparts.com/

--

David Brodbeck, N8SRE
'82 Diesel Westfalia
'94 Honda Civic Si