I find that if I can't bleed it in 5 minutes or less, something is
wrong. The trick is open the valve above the t-stat, strt the engine and
keep it ~2,000 rpm and have someone keep filling the main reservoir.
When the stream from the front bleeder is mostly clear, then clos the
bleeder, replace the pressure cap, (reservoir topped off) and then let
the engine return to idle. If all is normal, then any air remaining will
work itself out. Allow van to warm up and test radiator fan function and
you should be set.

Dennis

-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
Of MICHAEL POPE
Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2003 12:17 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Coolant bleeding temp

Hey now,
I had a small leak on the main rad hose that i was able to fix,(at the
joint) but having alot of trouble getting all of the air out . No
overheating overflow just filling up and spitting a little bit. New
press
cap- newer heads and gaskets (10,000 miles). I know that the engine
should
not be too warm when yopu bleed it , but how warm should I let it get? I
have been bleeding it from dead cold letting it warm up for a couple of
minutes before I start. Coolant still feels cool to the touch coming out
of
rad. Do I need to let it warm up a little more? Maybe still small leak
somewhere? Does not appear to be losing any more coolant but is hard to
pinpoint since is moving into overflow and spitting a little. Poss stuck
thermostat?(almost the only thing in cooling system that hasn't been
relaced. was checked in June and working ok). I don't have press tester
-
will take it to be tested if I have too. Trying to beat the cooling
demons
myself. Thanks for the help.

Have A Grateful Day,
Michael
89 Westy--Rosebud

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