

| Subject: | Re: More Idle Problems |
| From: | lauterba |
| Date: | Tue, 30 Dec 2003 00:53:24 -0500 |
Mike, I had similar symptoms a couple of years back with my '84. The culprit was a set of Bosch spark plug wires. I didn't find the problem myself. Fresh out of school jr. tech at local TBA store found it. John ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike D." <md03@XOCHI.COM> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 3:37 PM Subject: More Idle Problems > Previous History: > 85 Automatic Westy with 150k miles. > Has always had rough/loping idle > Low oil pressure lite flickers on when warm (and rpms below 1000) > Mechanic recommended AFM change, but not done. > Had lifters replaced about 6 months ago. > When cold, idles very poorly, dies frequently, but would idle > ok when warm (still rough, but not dying). > At freeway speed, runs fine : can do 70mph and gets about 15-17 mpg > Passed smog (just barely). > Compression was ok (even, around 120 in each) > Replaced O2 sensor. > > Last week: > Mechanic put in new (rebuilt) AFM and changed Oil. > Mechanic said there was "a lot" of metal in the oil. > Drove van home (didn't run too well -- kept dying at stoplights). > Test drove the van the next day: wouldn't idle when cold OR warm. > > I tried adjusting the timing and idle screw (both with and without > the Idle Stabilizer in circuit), but the only way to get it to idle > was to set the RPMs at about 1200. > > > Here are the leading theories: > > (1) My mechanic thinks the engine is shot, and can't keep oil > pressure at 850 rpm idle, which causes the lifters to stop lifting, > leading to loss of compression and engine stall. This theory is ok, > but doesn't explain why the sudden worsening of symptoms after the > new AFM and oil change, and why now it won't idle when warm OR cold. > > (2) Could this be a cold start issue? I've done the check of > crimping the bypass hose when warm (as per bently) and the idle > doesn't change. Also disconnected the O2 sensory wire with no change > in idle. Are there any other checks to do when warm to see if the > cold start systems are messing up the idle? > > (3) The previous mechanic had done some "mods" to the old AFM when he > replaced the lifters. I also noticed (just a few weeks ago) that one > of the vacuum advance/retard hoses was off, so replaced all the old > crusty looking vacuum lines. Now I'm wondering if perhaps the AFM > mods and the disconnected vacuum line were intentional (the previous > mechanic's way of getting the car to idle without dying) and that by > fixing the AFM and reconnecting the vaccum line I "broke" his fixes? > > (4) If it is an oil pressure problem, how quickly does low oil > pressure cause the lifters to start malfunctioning? Right now, if I > set the idle to 850 it will work for a few seconds but then it > sputters and dies. Would lifters lose pressure within a few seconds? > > (5) I know that I need a new engine, but I'd like to squeeze a little > more life out of this one. BusDepot (or perhaps busboys, i forget) > has a "high capacity" oil pump for $30. Is it worth putting one in > on the off chance it would give me a few more months? > > thanks again for all your help! > > -mike
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