I'd run it for a while with the valve OPEN and then
after a hundred miles, I'd bleed the front radiator:
Engine on, engine HOT, and just crack the front
radiator nut a bit to let the air out ( pisssssst ),
and re-tighten.  m2cw.  Keep an eye on the rear
over-flow tank for coolant level.  Malcolm

--- developtrust <developtrust@COX.NET> wrote:
> I just replaced the rear heater valve. I bought it
> from the dealer with the
> "O" ring $48.58 for both plus tax ($3.75) and
> replaced it. I only lost about
> 2 or 3 tablespoons of coolant. A very easy to do
> job.And simple. It took
> about 10 minutes.
>
> When inspecting the new valve I noticed that there
> was a tight fit and
> virtually no clearance between the valve and the
> housing for a very tight
> precision fit.
>
> Inspecting the old valve I saw that it was loose,
> dirty and there was
> significant space between the valve assembly inside
> and the housing, about
> 1/16 inch on both sides. The valve must have shrunk
> over the years.
>
> I did attempt to bleed the system at the rear heater
> core but got virtually
> no air which puzzled me. With a loss of about 3
> tablespoons of coolant there
> should have been some air. Any advice about that?
>
> I thought I would write this progress report in case
> anyone checks the
> archives in the future.
>
> William

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