You can easily test to see if the ignition switch is the cause. The
switch uses a separate contact for the starter and another to turn on
the ECU and ignition. The starter contact is obviously working. The
other contact may be bad. You can test it at the relay panel. There is
an empty relay socket in position #2. The 8 holes where a relay could
plug in make convenient test points. Hole number 4 is connected to the
ignition switch contact that turns on the ignition coil and ECU. Connect
a voltmeter probe between hole 4 of relay socket#2 and ground. You
should have +12 volts or so whenever the key is turned to ant on
position. There should be 0 volts with the key off. If you have +12
volts there during cranking and the engine does not start then the
switch is NOT the problem.

Mark

John Carpenter wrote:
>
> Thanks Joel,
> I went down to the bus this morning, and there is No fuel pump, initial surge. Also no spark. I will change the key switch first, then test those relays.
> What is the best way to check them?
> Thanks for your help!
> John C.
> SLC, UT
> 91 Westy...
>