On 1/28/04 8:55 AM, "mark drillock" <drillock@EARTHLINK.NET> wrote:

> You can easily test to see if the ignition switch is the cause. The
> switch uses a separate contact for the starter and another to turn on
> the ECU and ignition. The starter contact is obviously working. The
> other contact may be bad. You can test it at the relay panel. There is
> an empty relay socket in position #2. The 8 holes where a relay could
> plug in make convenient test points. Hole number 4 is connected to the
> ignition switch contact that turns on the ignition coil and ECU. Connect
> a voltmeter probe between hole 4 of relay socket#2 and ground. You
> should have +12 volts or so whenever the key is turned to ant on
> position. There should be 0 volts with the key off. If you have +12
> volts there during cranking and the engine does not start then the
> switch is NOT the problem.
>
> Mark
>
> John Carpenter wrote:
>>
>> Thanks Joel,
>> I went down to the bus this morning, and there is No fuel pump, initial
>> surge. Also no spark. I will change the key switch first, then test those
>> relays.
>> What is the best way to check them?
>> Thanks for your help!
>> John C.
>> SLC, UT
>> 91 Westy...
>>
Mark

Ya beat me and gave a better explanation too!!! Excellent test procedure!

Mike Twombley