When I replaced my master cylinder I did not have to bleed the system
beyond the clutch master. After replacing lost fluid in the tank, and
bleeding from the tank to the master cylinder. I found that fifty to 60
rapid pumps of the clutch pedal was sufficient to bring the clutch
"Pedal" back online and no further bleeding was necessary.  I never did
need to bleed the system beyond that point.

Also I have no needed to replace the clutch slave cylinder either.

BTW, the DOT 4 is the recommended brake fluid for this machine.

Regards,

John Rodgers
88 GL Driver

James V wrote:

>On 2/8/04 16:25, "Joel Cort" <joel_cort@YAHOO.COM> wrote:
>
>
>
>>I found this write up I had put together a while back, on instructions to do
>>this job.
>>
>>
>
>Thanks, all, for the reassurance.  Great instructions, Joel.  Definitely a
>do-able job for me - nothing like saving a buck or two hundred. (to Jim:
>yes, it's the master, not slave that's leaking)  But I think I'll replace
>the slave as well, per recommendation.
>
>Just a couple quick questions...
>
>I found more info on the procedure here:
>http://www.type2.com/bartnik/clutchmaster.htm
>
>It outlines a more involved clutch bleeding process than what Joel describes
>(more like brake breeding), including bleeding master first, then slave.  Is
>this truly not necessary?
>
>Also, about how much brake fluid should I be prepared with?  DOT 4 is fine?
>
>Thanks again,
>
>James
>90 Carat
>
>
>