The valves and guides can be checked for free movement with the heads in
place. You will need a compressed air source, a fitting for the spark
plug holes and a tool for compressing the valve springs and removing the
keepers. There are a number of tools available for this task. As a quick
check, next time the noise is there, remove the valve covers and turn
the engine by hand to see if any of the valves are sticking open. It is
usually obvious. A tight valve guide or bent valve will also bend a push
rod.

Dennis

-----Original Message-----
From: Damon Campbell [mailto:damoncampbellvw@yahoo.com]
Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2004 2:02 PM
To: Dennis Haynes; vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: RE: Problem with local service shop (vancouver, BC)... slight
rant

Thanks for the reply, Dennis.  The heads were brand
new AMC, and i replaced the adjusting screws (but
apparently with crap ones?).  Pretty much every
adjuster was pitted to varying degrees, but one screw
had been eaten away by at least a 1/4 inch.

The heads were purchased from the respected Bob
Donalds, so i feel confident that those have been
built correctly (corroborated by the
no-lack-of-power-when-cold thing).  Is there a
convenient way to check for that after the engine is
put together, anyway?

Thanks for everyone's replies,
-Damon

--- Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@optonline.net> wrote:
> A lifter will not chew up the adjuster screws. This
> will only be done by
> screws not being properly hardened, incorrect angle
> of the rocker to the
> valve stem, ( if the seats were cut, the rockers
> need to be shimmed out
> or the valve stems properly shortened), or the valve
> guides were not
> reamed properly cuasing the valves to stick, when
> the engine is cold.
> This will obviously cause lifter moise and make the
> engine run like you
> know what unitl the guides expand.
>
> Dennis

=====
'84 Westy (Sparky) w/2.3L WBX (wow... it actually works!)

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