I'm not sure I heard the whole saga, but you may have the bad idle
control unit, it's a $230-300 VDO part behind the rear passenger light.
If the id number on the part ends in B, that's the old part and there is
a weakness. Carefully! Pry the unit out of the case and look for scorch
marks on the boards (if it's scorched badly, it's time to replace, if
it's a slight scorch but is intact, start saving for a replacement), or
if the serial ends in D, it should be ok. This unit connects to the
other idle control unit, the cylindrical valve on top of the engine
(mine is an '87, I think digifant) which should buzz and click noisily
when the ignition is on.

Or, you may just need some adjustment of the CO2 control and o2 control,
check that you have the right temp and thread depth spark plugs, and
that your distributor cap has the brass fittings (not a cheap
aftermarket) and a good rotor, and that the wires are all in good
condition. Sometimes it's the simplest thing that you assume is ok...
Also run 20-50 oil, it helps maintain the proper compression if you're
getting low. (my mechanic recommends it at all times in a vanagon).

I had similar symptoms and was a little embarassed after spending a
great deal of time on electrical problems that I had cheaped out on the
wrong plugs and put a cheapo rotor cap in, and replacing these and
putting thicker oil in solved the problem. I ended up needing the VDO
upgrade anyhow, but I could have saved a lot of frustration...

If you have the luck to be near someone who works on vanagons full time,
even if it seems more costly, it's usually worth it.

Hope this helps,
Mark

-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
Of Warren.K.Lail-1
Sent: Friday, March 12, 2004 8:04 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Billy's in the hospital

I took Billy Bones to a mechanic this morning.  I
could do no more.  I replaced the Temp II sensor
last night and it changed nothing.

As far as the transmission is concerned, the
mechanic looked at the linkage connection and said
it was okay, but that one of those forks probably
moved while I had the shift shaft out.  He said it
was no big deal and that he could realign them
without pulling the tranny.

As far as how the engine runs, I did check the
ground strap.  In fact, I pulled the main ground
strap off the left side of the engine and sanded
the ends before reinstalling it.  I also pulled
the tranny ground strap and sanded both ends.
Finally, I pulled the battery ground strap and
cleaned it up. I also cleaned and reattached the
ground for the Hall sender to the left head.

Sometimes the bus will start and run okay,
sometimes it runs like a dog, and sometimes it
 will not start at all.   When it won't start, I
can hear the fuel pump initialize, but the solenoid
 does not click (and my battery is good).  Of
course the starter is brand new as well.  The
mechanic thinks that all of my problems are
related to a short in the wiring (somewhere).

If I'm lucky, the mechanic will have it running
by this evening.  Let's do a collective
list-finger-cross or something like that.

Best wishes,

Warren Lail
88 Westy "Billy Bones"
87 GL "Long John"

----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Lilley <wolfvan88@cox.net>
Date: Friday, March 12, 2004 8:23 am
Subject: RE: What a day...Billy kicked my as_

> You might need to readjust the shift linkage mounting point on the
> trannyand make sure the shifter up front is adjusted correctly.
> Removing the the tranny and putting it back in can change previous
> alignmentpoints.  If the seal is not sticking out and further than the

> old one, it is most likely simply an alignment problem.
>
> Did you remember the ground strap?  You probably did, but just
> checking...
>
>
> Did it not turn over or not fire up?
>
> Robert
>