As was mentioned, if the rear end scrubs, it is not
the front Viscous Coupling (VC), as the VC affects the
front wheels.  And yes, the front end feels 'tighter'
when the jelly heats up.

Re removing the drive shaft:  1) get some wire to hold
the shaft in place or it will drop and hit you in the
face when it drops. BTDT  Use a 13 mm open ended box
wrench on the inside (back of the front fitting, and
front of the rear fitting).  If they still will not
budge, then maybe they are rusted and may need
heating, but for that, I'd take my van to the my
mechanic.  I keep an extra supply of 13mm nuts so that
I can always have good ons if I round some getting
them off.

Also REMEMBER which way the shaft comes out (which end
is front and which is back).  Some folks loosen the
front diff a bit to get the shaft in and out, but I
find it is NOT necessary most of the time.  But if the
drive shaft has never been out, it will be rusted in
place.  Some folks mark (paint) the shaft mating
surfaces so that they can get the shaft back in the
EXACT orientation that it was when first installed.  I
routinely drive with my front-to-back drive shaft out.
If I want to take it with me, I use muffler U clamps
and mount the shaft to the back of the Westy pop-top.

And YES, the rear diff lock still works with the front
drive shaft out.  Can't help you with the rear end
stuff.

 Malcolm (91 syncro westy)

--- Jason Willenbrock <pooncerelli@HOTMAIL.COM> wrote:

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