John,
good tips on the Mann filters. I had heard they have a difference internally.
I have had problems too with lifters acting up when sitting for long periods.
Usually an easy run will get them to pump up and they are ok for months.

An oil change has helped. 
I like the "Engine Restore" product.

I do not like Mobile One.
I believe it is overkill on the vanagon and many Porsche folks who have switched to it
have found it created a multitude of engine oil leaks. 
In a turbo engine where the turbo bearings run at very high temps Mobile One does help.
Vanagon motors do not have abnormally high engine oil temps and with the oil cooler on the 2.1s it should not be an issue.
IMHO its a waste of money for the vanagon, you are better off running 20-50 and change the oil more frequently.

I run standard 20-50 in my Porsches and have had no problems at all. 

Doug

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: John Rodgers 
  To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM 
  Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2004 10:46 AM
  Subject: Re: lifter problems

  Paul,

  Replace your oil filter with a Mann or Mahle filter. These two filters
  have internal relief valve springs that have sufficient strength to hold
  the oil pressue in the oil galleries of the engine when the engine is
  turned off. Other brands do not. With the other filters, the pressure
  bleeds down in the galleries, allowing the [pressure to drop in the
  lifters, and then when you start up the valves clatter until the lifters
  pump up. It is said that this really doesn't hurt anything if the
  lifters pump up soon, but in rerality it does hurt the engine. Not in a
  large way, but over time the accumulated effects of the odd wear caused
  by this condition will contribute to engine problems. A lifter that is
  flat results in a valve that opens late and closes early. Thuswith an
  intake valve, you have a reduced charge in the cylinder, and therefore
  reduced power. On a four cylinder engine this is an out of balance
  condition that puts uneven loads on rotating parts. Not Good!! If it is
  an exhaust valve then you have a cylinder holding pressue far longer
  than it should, and  reduced scavenging of exhaust gases with resulting
  back pressure, thus increasing vibration, increasing temperatures, and
  putting added loads on rotating parts. Again, NOT GOOD!!

  So, get the filters that have over and over proven to work.

  Since your machine is aircooled, I'm not sure about the best oil type
  but consider my comments on the   WBX. It may apply to the aircooled
  engines. Don't know for certain.

   Add a bottle of Marvels Mystery oil to the engine oil, run around a
  bit......100 miles on a steady run........... then drain the oil,
  replace the filter, and put in Mobil One 15W50WT  Synthetic. If you
  still have the clattering on startup after all that, then you have
  problems in the valve train and the cold valve clearance with the
  lifters flat may have to be adjusted. If that doesn't do it, then the
  lifters themselvesare the problrm and you may have to replace them. But
  that is not likely if the engine is new.  I suggest you switch to Mobil
  One anyway, just as a matter of course. Bob Donalds web site,
  www.bostonengines.com has some good info about adjusting valves. Bob
  knows his stuff with these engines and is a good source of info.

  My own set up on my 88 GL is as follows

  *Engine:*  the Mann filter, Mobil One 15W50wt Synthetic ( piston type
  aircraft engines went to synthetic oils a long time ago... why not the
  WBX?)
  *Fuel System: *One bottle of Marvels Mystery oil every third tank full.
  *Coolant:* Texaco Havoline Orange Biodegreadable, and one bottle of
  Redline WaterWetter - Drain and flush sustem every two years, religiously.
  *Manual Tranny:* Redline MT90 tranny oil. Change every two years
  religiously. The molecular chains in oil break over time, and
  lubrication quality diminishes, so this makes sense to me as a
  maintenance item.
  *Brakes: *Bleed and flush with new break fluid every two years - I do
  this because of the water and dirt I have found in the lines at
  different times. Flushing as routine maintenance just makes sense to me.

  I have over 50,000 miles on a rebuilt engine and not a burp, nor drop of
  oil has leaked. It runs nice and cool, and all systems perform as they
  should. (Except the AC which needs work)

  I'm an old aircraft mechanic whose experiece has taught me that a high
  level of service and maintenance ALWAYS leads to better performance and
  longevity. You don't pull a broken airplane over and park it on a cloud
  while you wait for the tow truck!!!  And I absolutely HATE haveing to
  call a tow truck for my van.!!

  Best Regards,

  John Rodgers
  88 GL Driver

  Paul Whitley wrote:

  > Hello All,
  >
  > I am pretty new to the Vanagon scene. I have owned nothing but a BMW
  > 320I and multiple Beetles.  So I thought buying a 1982 Vanagon
  > (air-cooled) would be no different than what I have been use to. Boy
  > was I wrong.
  >
  > I usually do as much of my own maintenance as possible. I can pretty
  > much rebuild a 1600cc drunk and blindfolded, but this 2.0 is giving me
  > some annoying problems that I need help with.
  >
  > The hydraulic lifters seem to collapse every 10 or 11 months. This
  > last time when I replaced them and set the timing the problem did not
  > go away. There is definite blow back of the exhaust gasses and no
  > power. I think the van can go about 25 mph.
  >
  > This van has been in my family for 2 years now. I want to keep it, but
  > not if this happens every year. Is this an engineering flaw, or am I
  > doing something to contribute to the delinquency of a cranky van?
  >
  > Any ideas would be helpful.
  >
  > Thank you.
  >
  > Paul Whitley
  > 82 Vanagon GL  "Rolling Turd"
  > 74 Super Beetle "Tori #7"
  > 63 Beetle Project "Money Pit" or "Garage Therapy"
  >
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