Agree with David here.. keep it simple,
(for those not on broadband)

I just use a text editor (emacs, vi,
notepad, whatever)  for raw html
stuff.

The other alternative that I'll use for
WYSIWYG editing  (to see what the
page will look like) is the  'Composer'
program that comes with the Mozilla
web browser suite

http://mozilla.org

Used it to generate the top level page
here http://timschneider.org

The lower level pages are a combination
of hand generated as well as some pages
spit out by Photoshop, and myPhoto (for
the iPhoto libraries for the grandparents :-)

View the source of some pages that you like
and get some ideas, then go from there, it's
not that hard

  -tim