A few days ago, this appeared during the semi annual oil filter discussion:

>2. Anti-Drain/Anti-backflow valve.  Here is the CRITICAL difference. The
>Rabbit/Golf oil filter do NOT have anti-drain valve.  Neither does most other
>3rd party vendors like FRAM, AC Delco etc. Filters that are meant to be mounted
>on it side or at an angle will have the anti-drain valve. ******The Rabbit/Golf
>filter is mount bottom down.  The Vanagon filter is tilted on it side. ****** When
>you leave your engine off over night, filters mounted on it's side or tilted
>will drain all or most of the oil back to the sump unless there is an
>anti-drain valve to keep the oil in the filter.

I can only relate to the air cooled 2.0L, but this is saying that the vanagon
oil filter is tilted on its side? I know mine is not, so is the water cooled
engine oil filter tilted on its side??? I thought they all were attached the
same way, bottom side down.

Every time I read these oil filter threads, I have to smile because, although I
don't doubt the wisdom of the design, and the experiences of others, I find no
difference between the Mahle/Mann filters, and the Bosche from Auto Zone
knockoffs with regards to limiting my "dry starts"

My filter is mounted bottom down, so I am at a loss to understand how, or why
the oil drains back into the sump, if the anti-drain valve is weak, or non
existent. I understand the idea of the valve, I just cannot apply it to the air
cooled engine since the filter is level with, or at least not above, the sump.

I used Boshe for years without realizing the design details, and all was fine,
but the last three or four filters often gave my engine grief, so I got some
Mahle's from the list vendors, and there is no difference so far after three
filters. Usually, its okay, but too many times lately, I get the starving lifter
syndrome. If I am on a trip, or using the van every day, its good, but two days
sitting idle on a level garage floor, and its "tap city" when I start it up. I
have taken to opening the hatch and removing the coil wire, cranking it twice
for about five or six secs each, then hooking it back up and when I start it,
its fine.

I am considering a kill switch to simplify the process. Anyone have any
experience on how to wire up such a thing?

Comments or words of wisdom are solicted.

Thanks,

John