On 25 Jun 2004 at 21:30, Anonymous Digest <jbrush@AROS.NET> wrote:

>  A few days ago, this appeared during the semi annual oil filter discussion:
>
> >2. Anti-Drain/Anti-backflow valve.  Here is the CRITICAL difference. The
> >Rabbit/Golf oil filter do NOT have anti-drain valve.  Neither does most other
> >3rd party vendors like FRAM, AC Delco etc. Filters that are meant to be mounted
> >on it side or at an angle will have the anti-drain valve. ******The Rabbit/Golf
> >filter is mount bottom down.  The Vanagon filter is tilted on it side. ******
> >When you leave your engine off over night, filters mounted on it's side or
> >tilted will drain all or most of the oil back to the sump unless there is an
> >anti-drain valve to keep the oil in the filter.
>
> I can only relate to the air cooled 2.0L, but this is saying that the vanagon
> oil filter is tilted on its side? I know mine is not, so is the water cooled
> engine oil filter tilted on its side??? I thought they all were attached the
> same way, bottom side down.
>
> Every time I read these oil filter threads, I have to smile because, although I
> don't doubt the wisdom of the design, and the experiences of others, I find no
> difference between the Mahle/Mann filters, and the Bosche from Auto Zone
> knockoffs with regards to limiting my "dry starts"
>
> My filter is mounted bottom down, so I am at a loss to understand how, or why
> the oil drains back into the sump, if the anti-drain valve is weak, or non
> existent. I understand the idea of the valve, I just cannot apply it to the air
> cooled engine since the filter is level with, or at least not above, the sump.
>
> I used Boshe for years without realizing the design details, and all was fine,
> but the last three or four filters often gave my engine grief, so I got some
> Mahle's from the list vendors, and there is no difference so far after three
> filters. Usually, its okay, but too many times lately, I get the starving lifter
> syndrome. If I am on a trip, or using the van every day, its good, but two days
> sitting idle on a level garage floor, and its "tap city" when I start it up. I
> have taken to opening the hatch and removing the coil wire, cranking it twice
> for about five or six secs each, then hooking it back up and when I start it,
> its fine.
>
> I am considering a kill switch to simplify the process. Anyone have any
> experience on how to wire up such a thing?
>
> Comments or words of wisdom are solicted.

I have used VW filters (made in USA, very similar to US made Champion/Bosch) and
various oils over the past 8 years. I started with Mobil 1 15w50 and noticed an
immediate reduction in lifter noise from several minutes at cold start to a few seconds
or none at all. I only drive the van about 6-8 months per year, so it often sits for weeks
or months at a time. I also only put 10-15k kms per year on it, so oil is changed yearly
at most. One summer I tried Castrol GTX 20w50, my old standby for many years, and
had immediate lifter noise if the van sat for more than a day or two. If I drove it for only
a short trip, the next day lifter noise would last for 20 minutes or more!
Back to Mobil 1! The Mobil 1 would start to the exhibit lifter noise after a year or so,
indicating a change was due. The last few years I have used Amsoil 15w40 diesel &
marine oil (full synth), and found it even better. I went 2 years without a change, and
the lifter noise was still virtually non-existent. The engine now has 220k kms on a VW
rebuild and runs great, uses about 1/2 liter in 10k kms at most.
So does the filter valve matter on a WBX? I don't know, but I've had enough troubles
with FRAM filters on I-4 VWs to avoid them and other cheapos like the plague...

--
Shawn Wright
http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/swright
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