Sam

i would squirt some oil in the cylinders before you even crank it by hand.
also i would pull the distributor and use a 13mm socket and drill to spin
the oil pump.  remove the oil sender or plug in the head and run the drill
until oil starts to gush out.  i would change the timing belt but leave
the water pump.  the water pump is an easy change on the vehicle if is
starts to weep.  these pumps last a long time in my opinion.  i have only
replaced one in my may years of many vw inlines.  i would send the
injectors our for testing/cleaning.  good luck :).

jonathan

On Fri, 30 Jul 2004, Sam Payne wrote:

> Hi,
>
>    I just picked up a very complete 1988 Audi 2.0 engine (for my Westflia)
> today, with 10,000 original miles on it. Stock numbers matched forms
> matched conditions and carfax supported it. Very exciting!
>    It's been sitting indoors on a shelf in the parts yard since 1991. It
> wasn't wrapped, but the heads are on, plugs and injectors are in and water
> hoses are still attached. The bottom end looks like it has remained pretty
> well sealed, but the valve cover oil fill cap is missing so air could get
> in there.
>    I'm looking for tips as to how list members resuscitate stored engines.
> Bearing in mind they only have 10,000 miles on them, would it be worth
> replacing the H2O pump and timing belt because of their age? Should I
> squirt oil in the cylinders before turning it over, etc. You get the drift.
>
>  Thanks, can't wait to get it in the van!
>
>                    Sam
>